Advice on Bespoke suit?...riding a motorcycle

If you're getting one tailored, what threadcount do you guys typically get for everyday suits? I got to wear mine on the motorcycle sometimes...so need something tough but doesn't wrinkle too much.

Bit confused on, higher thread count more wrinke, or lower thread count more wrinkle?

And Im going flat front, and single breasted.

Any other advice for tailored suits?

 
Best Response

Well it is hard to differentiate, and perhaps PA asked you where you're from because it is usually Americans that confuse the nuances of bespoke and tailored/mtm/custom.

Bespoke is classic Savile Row. You make an appointment, choose every single detail of your suit yourself and receive advice from the tailor, and then purchase your suit which usually take anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks to make (and run anywhere from $1500 for cheap ones to the like of $10000).

MTM is where you choose a suit with differing measurements (i.e. not off the rack). Not as customizeable and not built exactly "for you". E.g. a bespoke will even account for the different lengths of your arms, MTM will not. MTM is along the lines of being able to choose a shirt with neck and sleeve measurements, as opposed to "off the rack" shirts in conventional S/M/L sizes.

Tailored is a very ambiguos term. Usually it refers to any off the rack suit which has been taken to the tailor for altercations. This, IMO, is the most conventional and rational choice for the average person (unless you are making enough for a bespoke (read: Savile Row) suit). The best reason to just get an off the rack is of course the price, however usually there is some disparity in the drop (proportionality of chest size to waist). Most OTR have 6 or 8 inch drops (40 inch chest comes with 32 waist), though 6 is usually more prominent.

Hopefully I haven't confused you more, and I'll try to clarify what I can if you'd like.

"History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."
 
streetwannabe:

Hopefully I haven't confused you more, and I'll try to clarify what I can if you'd like.

Appreciate the thought out response! I believe I'm getting an actual bespoke suit, but its being done abroad, so cheap labor. Making an appointment with the tailor. Like I can get "different lengths of your arms".

I've got one suit from this tailor before, in Black unfortunately lol, saw the other thread....should I go back and get a blue or medium-ish gray?

The tailor is really good, and cheap, only the material is my cost....thats why was asking about threadcounts and such. How do you tell if a cloth is good quality?...that baffles me

 

Unfortunately, I really have no idea. Have not had the luxury to really deal with these things personally, just have read a lot and looking forward to the day I can afford bespoke.

But I would say the best option would be wool, in a grey or navy (just best looking colors IMO). Cotton can be nice, but in the end is not as versatile and timeless as wool.

Perhaps read up on your wool fabrics, unless you are still convinced that you want cotton.

"History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."
 

When riding my dirt bike to work I usually wear my super 150's but I'm always sure to also wear chaps (sometimes assless in the summer) to prevent burns and leakage onto the fabric. Definitely go with wool. Navy or gray. The higher the thread count the better (softer) but also the quicker that it will wear out. Go with anything between a super 100-150. If I know that I will be pulling wheelies and going off jumps on my way to work i go with the off the rack suits in case I fall.

 

thanks for the advice guys, and bespoke/mtm, its whatever, just getting it straight up tailored. Going with light wool with probably 110 or 120 thread count, whichever I can find higher quality cloth in.

I have a black suit right now...yes I bought it for funeral. For interviews, get the gray or blue?

 
Fetter:
CRE:

>

I am not happy about that, thank you very much. Still bitter

huh?

Wall Street (1987) is one of my favorite movies of all time. They could have made Wall Street 2 amazing. Instead, they made it awful.

I am bitter

Commercial Real Estate Developer
 
CRE:
Fetter:
CRE:

>

I am not happy about that, thank you very much. Still bitter

huh?

Wall Street (1987) is one of my favorite movies of all time. They could have made Wall Street 2 amazing. Instead, they made it awful.

I am bitter

lol chin up man. Maybe The Wolf of Wallstreet will be a replacement, afterall Leo typically gives a good performance

 
Fetter:

lol chin up man. Maybe The Wolf of Wallstreet will be a replacement, afterall Leo typically gives a good performance

I'm pretty pumped for it. I loved the two books by Belfort. What a guy

Commercial Real Estate Developer
 
streetwannabe:

Well it is hard to differentiate, and perhaps PA asked you where you're from because it is usually Americans that confuse the nuances of bespoke and tailored/mtm/custom.

Bespoke is classic Savile Row. You make an appointment, choose every single detail of your suit yourself and receive advice from the tailor, and then purchase your suit which usually take anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks to make (and run anywhere from $1500 for cheap ones to the like of $10000).

MTM is where you choose a suit with differing measurements (i.e. not off the rack). Not as customizeable and not built exactly "for you". E.g. a bespoke will even account for the different lengths of your arms, MTM will not. MTM is along the lines of being able to choose a shirt with neck and sleeve measurements, as opposed to "off the rack" shirts in conventional S/M/L sizes.

Tailored is a very ambiguos term. Usually it refers to any off the rack suit which has been taken to the tailor for altercations. This, IMO, is the most conventional and rational choice for the average person (unless you are making enough for a bespoke (read: Savile Row) suit). The best reason to just get an off the rack is of course the price, however usually there is some disparity in the drop (proportionality of chest size to waist). Most OTR have 6 or 8 inch drops (40 inch chest comes with 32 waist), though 6 is usually more prominent.

Hopefully I haven't confused you more, and I'll try to clarify what I can if you'd like.

You're actually wrong about MTM. Any MTM tailor will be able to adjust sleeve length, shoulder padding (to make your shoulders look even, everyone has a slump on one side), neck roll, etc. Your comparison to numerically sized shirts vs. alpha sized shirts is poor. A MTM suit is largely customizable, the only difference between it and bespoke is that they start from a pre-designed pattern. Bespoke is from scratch and truly unique to you. MTM takes whichever one of several 'models' is closest to you and starts from there.
I am permanently behind on PMs, it's not personal.
 

That is essentially what I was trying to say. May have come off as a little incoherent, but I think the analogy works alright. All I meant was that an off the rack suit and an alpha sized shirt, have comparably less options (or customizations) than a MTM suit and a numerically sized shirt. No doubt that any good tailor would be able to account for different arm lengths, I was just trying to illustrate the nuanced differences between MTM and bespoke.

"History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."
 
junkbondswap:

Depends what you are interviewing for, where you live, and how senior you are but you can't go wrong with a navy suit, quality black leather soled lace-ups, white shirt (no pocket) w/ french or barrel cuffs, and a conservative blue or red tie.

You could definitely go wrong with French cuffs in the wrong situation

Commercial Real Estate Developer
 

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