Comments (82)

Sep 22, 2006

I have one $800 suit and about 4-5 $250 suits.

i can't justify spending $2k on a suit

Sep 22, 2006

I have three tiers for suits, essentially.

3x $800-1200
6x $400-500
4x $300

Tailoring is another $200-250 for each suit (I have the waist darts and lining reconstructed completely to give me a 1940's cinch-waist look), but I don't bother if it costs less than $500.

I also don't bother with any very huge haute names. Their women's clothes are usually too couture for banking.

Repairs cost around $20-30/month (girls' clothes are flimsy and I'm clumsy), and I scrap the suit once the fabric gets too damaged from dry cleaning/pressing or multiple repairs, which usually takes 1.5-3 years. All of my suits are charcoal, navy, or black. Pinstripes are tone-on-tone because high-contrast pinstripes overemphasize a woman's curves (and with the intense tailoring, that would come off as overtly sexual). I only wear shells beneath (they're often shunned as too passive, but I needed to soften my look a few years ago and the shells worked nicely), and they're always solid neutral colors: cream, white, black, or charcoal. All accessories (handbag, shoes, watch, gloves) are black leather with silver-tone metal fittings; all jewelry is small and silver. No open toes, no cleavage.

The only place I step out of line is in silk scarves, and that's where I bring in some color and pattern. All in all, including casuals, I probably spend five grand a year on clothes. I think I get off pretty easy for most girls.

Sep 22, 2006

did you build that inventory over a few years? Or bought majority prior to starting work?

Sep 22, 2006

4 charcoal
3 navy at 2,000$ each

Sep 22, 2006

You guys spend too much fucking money on clothes, Jesus Christ. Good thing I don't want to work in New York, I hope Chicago isn't like that. I would rather have a nice house/car over a brand named 2,000-dollar suit... but I guess that is just a Midwest thing since we like big houses compared to those tiny New York apartments or California houses.

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Nov 3, 2019

do you work in Chicago?

Sep 22, 2006

no brand names, just bespoke

Sep 22, 2006

I don't know what exactly "bespoke" is but if you're referring to getting something tailored I can just hop down to Mexico and get a tailored suit for 60 bucks, along with custom boots too, you guys pay too much for the same shit. Also have a friend from Shanghai who brings be back nice Presidential knock-off Rolexes for 15 bucks.

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Sep 22, 2006

bespoke is a british word. it means "to be spoken for." you get a fully custom suit cut for your body. the measurments are taken, a baste pattern is made for your body, and the suit is handmade. Bespoke.

Sep 22, 2006

Well that's a pretty gay word. Hey man it's not a brand name it's "bespoke." Seriously no one is going to know what the fuck that means. I still don't see how "to be spoken for" means tailored made.

Sep 22, 2006

The word came to be when customers would reserve measures of cloth to be made into suits, primarily on Savile Row in London. Bespoke suits still have brand names, usually the names of the tailors or shops that make them. And trust me, everyone will know what you mean when you say "bespoke." Whether or not they will care and/or be impressed that you are bragging about how much you paid for a suit is another story..

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Sep 22, 2006

Is this a London thing or do they say bespoke in Chicago, San Fran, LA, etc?

Sep 22, 2006
Sep 22, 2006

its an everywhere thing. yes, the established Savile Row makers carry brand names, i.e. Hunstman, Kilgour..., but many out of the USA are not branded

Sep 22, 2006

agree with Dan/ game theory...bespoke is definitely one rung above just getting a brand name suit off the shelf.

Sep 22, 2006

For most people, a good alterations tailor will be fine. For people will slightly peculiar builds, a made-to-measure suit would probably fit the bill.

My personal point of view is that at age 22-25, buying SR bespoke is a waste of money since your body is going to go through alot of change in the next 10 years. I think HK bespoke is a pretty good deal, especially if you buy the fabric (cost is probably less than an on-sale Zegna or Canali)..

Dec 1, 2006

you can defiantely get good deals on bespoke in HK. Much lower than the 3k starting price elsewhere.

Sep 22, 2006

i agree with that. but hey, who knows what will happen to you. you could be gone tommorow. do what you like, so long as it isnt outrageous.

Sep 23, 2006

I reckon suit tells alot about the persons style and passion for quality.
I dislike going after brand names although they look crap on you. I would only for for style and fit and quality (brands like armani do very well at all these, so does zegna)

my inventory
4* tailored suit with 2 pair of pants each
2* $800-1200 range
1* $500

Colors - Black, Brown, Charcoal, grey.
most of them are pinstriped or pattern like. I love a bit of smart flair.

Sep 23, 2006

nix the black. its a businss no no

Sep 23, 2006

Black's fine where I work, even for men.

Sep 23, 2006

are you sure its black? maybe a dark charcoal.

Sep 23, 2006

2k for bespoke is a bit on the light side wouldn't you say?

Sep 23, 2006

it is, 4k is more accurate. i get a deal though

Sep 24, 2006

Hong Kong - how much does it cost to tailor a suit there?

boz - you work in Australia right? you got your suits there? how much did you pay for the armani's and zegna?

Sep 24, 2006

much cheaper than the us. do you mean bespoke or actual tailoring? b/c tailoring can be had for 50$ at your local tailor.

Sep 24, 2006

Dan, I know my blacks. Guys and girls wear black at my bank.

Sep 24, 2006

black is fine. Its a very professional look.
I don't wear navy though, can be a bit of a saleman look with a white shirt and navy suit.

Sep 24, 2006

black is a nono, a dark charcoal is what most wear.

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Sep 24, 2006

but ms ind, i dont doubt you, as many junior level people wear black

Sep 24, 2006

dan, was referring to bespoke.

Sep 24, 2006

and i thought i was spoiled with my Boss suits...

Sep 25, 2006

Dan, we have a British male MD who wears black suits, as well as three female MDs and a female VP, all of whom wear black suits.

Sep 25, 2006

they are for funerals and nights out, not business

Sep 25, 2006

females can wear them, they are not rec. for males though

Sep 25, 2006

Black is for tuxitos, funerals, some other social occasions maybe

Not for work.

Sep 25, 2006

yes sir, right on the money

Sep 25, 2006

Are for pimps, rockstars, and celebs.

oh and..."I don't wear navy though, can be a bit of a saleman look with a white shirt and navy suit."

What planet are you on? Navy is a staple conservative color. If anything "black" is an instant credibility killer with clients..especially old school senior executives.

Sep 25, 2006

Dark charcoal and dark navy. the cornerstones of the IB wardrobe.

Sep 25, 2006

i think as long as the suit isn't some funky color like lime green, it doesn't really matter if you wear blue or charcoal...as long as it looks good on you

Sep 25, 2006

tuxito lol

Sep 25, 2006

yah I've heard the same thing about black....not necessarily from people in IBanking but from old rich guys who know what they're doing-

Sep 25, 2006

no black

Oct 19, 2006

can someone go to dan bush's house and colour him black with a sharpie please. stfu dude.

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Oct 19, 2006

one $400 unfitted hugo boss suit which i will get fitted in a month or so...

Oct 19, 2006

Have you guys ever bought a suit/tie off eBay?

Tons of men I've worked with shop eBay for suits/ties. Any given day there's tons of Loro Piana on eBay. Since you got such a great deal, spend some $$ to tailor to your size.

Oct 19, 2006
aadpepsi:

Have you guys ever bought a suit/tie off eBay?

Tons of men I've worked with shop eBay for suits/ties. Any given day there's tons of Loro Piana on eBay. Since you got such a great deal, spend some $$ to tailor to your size.

I wouldn't trust ebay for something that expensive, I bought plenty of stuff on ebay for my car, and almost always a part that they say is "mint' comes looking like crap

Dec 4, 2006
aadpepsi:

Have you guys ever bought a suit/tie off eBay?

Tons of men I've worked with shop eBay for suits/ties. Any given day there's tons of Loro Piana on eBay. Since you got such a great deal, spend some $$ to tailor to your size.

I've been on Ebay since '99, and I can tell you that since about '02, it has become exponentially more difficult to find authentic luxury goods on Ebay. It wasn't long ago that I would run a search for "Brioni" or "Kiton" and less than 10 items would come up. Now... what a mess. I've been a clotheshorse for years, and used Ebay often as a broke undergrad. You can shop successfully, but the effort required to protect yourself by scrutinizing buyers and the product is about as tedious as Century 21 on a Saturday during the holidays (for non-NY metro area folks: it is very stressful). My last round of purchases on Ebay was almost two years ago, and I went two for three. I picked up an authentic Luciano Barbera suit for $725, but the seller did not disclose that it was from his ~$1,500+ "Club" line, not his $3,000+ "Sartoriale" line. Still, for $725, I win. Next, an authentic Purple Label polo for $60 - what a steal. But I was taken with the third purchase, another Purple Label polo turned out to be a fake (and not even a good one).

Now, I am fortunate enough that I can generally afford to shop at retail. It is pretty damn tough to fake a seven-fold Kiton tie or Brioni's signature suit jacket lining. But I'm sure some Chinese entrepreneur is working hard to change that as I speak.

On another topic, I would wholeheartedly agree that paying more than $2,000 for a suit off the rack is absurd. Take the same money to a tailor and stop being a label whore.

Oct 19, 2006

Searching for a Sony Bravia 32" flat screen TV. I want to pay $800 tops :-)

eBay is sketchy for electronics etc.
I found it's not so sketchy for clothes, shoes.

I used to purchase handbags at full retail before, used them and then recoup at least 40% of their value on eBay. Nice recovery I think. Now, I just search eBay first and resist paying full retail again. Heck, I sell my used jeans on eBay :-)

I just saw a Prada down parka jacket with fur hood going for $250... I didn't bid 'cuz it wasn't my size, but otherwise looked pretty decent.

Oct 19, 2006

OMG just look at the comments by Dan Bush, now knowing who he is they are just hilarious. Supposedly he had $10000 worth of suits, and all of them bespoke. And just think at all this shit he just imagines and came up with and lied about. The fucker is still in college and he is already pretending to be an MD. Just too funny. I wonder if he's that Vayner guy... just too funny.

Oct 19, 2006

just be careful about getting fake shit on ebay. 99% of designer stuff is fake. general rule of "if it's too good to be true, it probably is" still applies.

Oct 19, 2006

yeah but you can still figure out if its fake pretty easily...usually it'll say replica, style, or the name will be misspelled

Oct 19, 2006

im currently a junior in undergrad and im applying for a banking internship next spring. i was wondering how many suits, shirts and ties did you guys before you started your internship/full-time?
it seems like you need to spend half of what you earn before you even earn it on professional attire..

Oct 20, 2006

you'll probably have to spend 1000 bucks on something decent. 600 on a decent suit, and the rest on shirts/ties

Oct 20, 2006

So most people only get one suit for their internship period?

Oct 20, 2006
spade:

So most people only get one suit for their internship period?

no clue, but I mean as a summer analyst you won't have that much face time...and most people just wear a shirt/tie and slacks...and only put on the jacket when its something important like a presentation...at least thats my understanding.

Nov 29, 2006

Hey for summer analyst all you need is one suit (if you work in a business casual atmosphere). You don't go to client meetings that often. When you interact with clients wear the same suit and change the shirt and tie. They are not going to notice, and if they do, who the fuck cares you are an intern.

BTW Bluefly.com and tyrwhitt have sales on great quality suits all the time. On bluefly you can get some armani or what every designer name you want for usually over 40% off the ticketed price. Check there before you purchase something at a store.

I always check out the store, try it on then make my way to bluefly.com and buy the same suit online rather than in the store (you just need to bring it to a tailor later on when you get it in the mail).

Just an idea.

Nov 30, 2006

dont know if you can buy em all at one time....probably not

Nov 30, 2006

bangkok is pretty good for made to measure suits and you can get them over the internet...

Nov 30, 2006

Who has had suits made by Astor and Black? Seems like an awesome deal for bespoke suits and shirts, but I'm not sure of the quality, or how they do it so cheaply.

Nov 30, 2006

i just need a banana :)

Nov 30, 2006

What's the URL for the Bangkok bespoke site? Thanks

Nov 30, 2006

Just build it over time. Buying a couple of shirts here and there. As for suits, it all depends on you. Some guys where suits all the time, others almost never. 2-3 decent suits are more than enough as an analyst. There's nothing more hilarious (and ridiculed around the office) then a analyst with clothes befitting an MD.

Dec 1, 2006

these dudes seem to have a good reputation based on some research i've did online...

http://www.geocities.com/asongtailor http://www.dress-for-success.com/
http://www.crowntailor.com
Let me know if you've got stuff from them... I was thinking of heading to Bangkok to get them done since it's pretty near where I live..

Dec 1, 2006

Shit, that's really cheap!

Dec 1, 2006

Astor and Black does bespoke suits for $450 in Super 120's, which they say is the same material that Canali uses, and going up to around $800 for Super 180's, which they say is from the same supplier that Versace uses.

They also do custom shirts, 10 for $450.

I haven't used them yet, but am curious to see who has, and what your opinion is.

They come to your apartment or office and will fit you for the suits and let you pick out fabrics. All of the detailing is included, and you get working surgeons cuffs, monogramming, lining, and whatever else you would like, all for free.

Has anyone used them that is willing to share info with the board?

Dec 1, 2006

i read somewhere that you shouldn't get super 180 because it's threads are so fine that they would damage if worn everyday. Apparently 100 is more than sufficient for an everyday suit and 120 should also only be worn on occasion (e.g. important meeting, presentation or going on tv).

that's what i read not sure if it's totally accurate!

Dec 1, 2006

Ermen is right. Super 180's and above are not to be worn everyday. They are more for special events. They are too fine and can be damaged with 10+ dry cleanings.

100's and 120's are the best for everyday use. They can put up with some abuse.

Dec 1, 2006

Interesting topic..and i need a banana

Dec 1, 2006

Are emporio armani suits considered appropiate and nice?

Dec 1, 2006

I just wear my XXL White tees and baggy jeans to work. Top that off with some Fresh Air force Ones and a fitted and I'm good.

Dec 1, 2006

but the dress code has changed to buz casual so will not invest any more

Dec 1, 2006

I get custom tailored suits that use Zegna fabric for $600-750 each (Italian fabric 150's, hand stichting, customized label with your name in it)

Shirts 100% Egyptian cotton cufflinks, monogram approx $65 each. from

www.maxwellsclothiers.com

They measure you in the hotel and ship your stuf to you from Hong Kong.

He is in New York this week!!!

Dec 2, 2006

You can't go wrong with the Golden Fleece.

Dec 2, 2006

I don't spend a penny, my dad has expanded quickly in his middle age and I have inherited the majority of his suits :) I love hand-me-downs

Dec 2, 2006

they rated a bunch of different brands of suits blah, blah, blah....the winner was an Arnold Brant suit from sierratradingpost.com I looked at the website and they have some legit stuff. If you can find a decent tailor you can probably save some really good cash on their site.

Dec 3, 2006

If you need suits for interviewing go in hobo garb. It will make you stand out from the crowd.

Dec 7, 2006
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Dec 7, 2006
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