Business Formal at Investment Banks: Need Advice!

From what I've heard, Lehman and Blackstone seem to be two firms with a business formal dress code. For someone graduating and starting at a bank such as this, what would you recommend for suits, shirts, shoes, etc.?

Suits: Besides standard navy, what else is preferable for an analyst? For example, are pinstripes over the top? And what shades of gray would be acceptable?

Shirts: Button-down, point, or spread collars? French cuffs or no? What patterns are acceptable, if one wants to go with something besides the standard solid blue and white?

Shoes: Allen Edmonds and Alden, I suppose? Anything else?

Watch: Leather-banded dress watch? Or are dive watches (a la Rolex Sub) acceptable?

I understand that the work an analyst does it by far of the most importance, but any help in these areas would help me to feel more prepared and confident, knowing that I'm not breaking any rules of etiquette.

Thanks in advance for the help!

20 Comments
 

I will also be in this situation. I saw on the other threads that an analyst needs 2-4 suits. Is this enough for someone who will have to wear business formal every weekday? Can I survive with anything but a Patek?

Just kidding about the second question.

 
Best Response

Suit Color - pinstripes are fine. Just avoid thick chalk stripe suits (too over the top in my opinion). Stick with navy and shades of gray. Any shade of gray is fine actually - I have a nice light gray pinstriped suit. Charcoal gray is generally considered more conservative though, so if you like gray, I would get more darker gray suits versus lighter gray.

Suit Jacket - 2 or 3 button, your choice, always single breasted. I'm 6'0 and I have a mix of 2 and 3 button. If you're really short go with 2 button though. As for single or double split, either is fine (a really well dressed and clothes conscious person would probably tell you that double is better, though).

Suit Pants - my preference is flat front with an straight hem at the bottom (no cuff). I personally thinks pleats are hideous (they pucker when you sit, creating a tent over your crotch, and don't sit nicely against your thighs). That being said, a lot of people (at all levels) wear pleated pants so if you prefer this look, certainly go right ahead. Flat front is more of the European look, and virtually all European designer suits have flat front pants.

Shirts: Avoid button down collars at all costs. They look too casual (no one at my bank wears them). I personally prefer spread collars, and that's the look that's definitely dominant at my bank. Side vents appear to be the most popular. I would avoid the back pleat - a good number of analysts at my bank do wear shirts (mostly from Brooks Brothers) with this feature, but I've rarely seen it on associate up or the better dressed analysts. As for the cuffs - I have about 50% french and 50% barrel. I think french is nicer looking, but as an analyst it's best not to wear cuff links every day (but 2 days a week or so is fine and not unusual). Also, at a business formal bank, cuff links will fit right in. As for the cuff links - I think simple silver ones are the nicest (Tiffany has some nice simple silver ones for $150). Silk knots are okay. Gold is acceptable, but not on a daily basis (I have a pair of simple gold ones that I wear occassionally).

Shoes: Allen Edmonds are great and really comfortable. Just make sure to get laceups. I'm personally not a big fan of loafers with the hardware on top (proclaiming what brand the shoe is..kind of tacky in my opinion) but I definitely seen them at my bank.

Ties: I've heard others on this board say it's unacceptable for an analyst to wear Hermes / Brioni etc. ties. I personally think it's fine, no one is going to fault you for looking good. Just avoid ties that obviously identify the brand - none of those stupid Hermes ties with the animals on them. I like solid colors or stripes best. The truth of the matter is, a $170 Hermes or Brioni tie looks 10x better than a $60 tie from Macys, so it's worth the extra $100 or so. I would say check out Brooks Brothers too for ties (I think their clothes are awful, but they have some nice ties).

Watch: If you can't afford a nice watch, it's perfectly acceptable as an analyst not to wear one. If you can afford a nice one though, a leather strap and white or yellow gold is nicest IMO. A lot of the second years in my group have snazzy watches (thanks to the big bonuses last year I assume) but only a handful of first years have really nice watches (a bunch don't wear a watch at all, or have something $1k like a Movado).

As for how much your appearance actually matters as an analyst, I would say it varies a lot depending on who you're working with. One of the most respected 2nd years in my group is probably one of the worst dressed analysts in our group - his clothes never fit (oversized shirts that leave that big rim of fabric above his belt), he's always got his sleeves rolled up to his elbows, huge double pleated pants, tacky ties. Yet the people he's worked for obviously couldn't care less (and yes, he gets brought to meetings). However, I know there are other senior people in my group who do care (based on hearing their snide comments about others' clothes). Overall of course, it's your work product that matters most, but I think looking polished creates a nice, professional impression, which does help.

 

I would imagine sweatsuits would also work well.

Seriously though, as long as it does look like something Archbishop Don Juan could be seen wearing I think you are cool.

 

thats probably more than reasonable. last summer the bank i worked in had formal dress as well. i had 3 suits, probably 8 shirts, and like 8 ties and it was all good for me.

 

what saved my ass is the tide to go pen. depending on your laundry/dry cleaner situation, you will most likely get tired of washing and ironing/taking clothes to cleaner pretty quickly, and this little bastard will enable you to erase any evidence that you wore the shirt the day before. also an excellent way to show some foresight when your associate, analyst, or MD get stains on their shirts

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