Surf Thread

I have noticed in another thread that some of the monkeys here are avid surfers, so I thought why not make a surf thread?

While I would consider myself a bloody beginner (just did some surfing during an exchange semester in Cape Town and trip to Indonesia), I kind of fell in love with it and plan to spend a couple of months to travel and surf before beginning my analyst stint next Summer.

Any recommendations where to do that? Overall nice place with great beginner/intermediate waves, low cost of living, low cost high quality lessons, equipment renting possibilities etc. would be amazing.

Also general discussion, experiences and stories encouraged.

Cheers

Comments (21)

 
Most Helpful
Aug 10, 2018 - 1:54pm

I spent my first summer in college surfing in Bali and it was the best summer ever. I pretty much learned there and have been a fan since. Super cheap, but has everything you would want. Made friend with a shop owner while I was there and ended up drinking at the shop every night. Really miss that time!!!

In NYC, there's decent waves in the Hampton, particularly in Montauk. There's also a few spots in the Rockaway which is accessible by subway!!.

 
  • Anonymous Monkey's picture
  • Anonymous Monkey
  • Rank: Chimp
Aug 10, 2018 - 2:03pm

Surfing reminds me of all those retarded liberals surfing their lives away in sunny southern California (an absolute cesspool) while others are trying to change the world.

Stick to golf or polo, please.

 
Jul 23, 2020 - 5:10am

Surfing feels like you have a free ride from Nature. feels like you have harnessed the power and are enjoying it, feels like you forget everything else in the world except the waves and you. Feels like peace, quite if your waiting for the waves. Feels like Sun and Salt water are good for you and helping you feel better. Feels like you want to get another wave after you get one good one. Your adrenilne pumps up after a good waves, All your akas and pains go away for a couple of minutes. Your smiling when you go in even if you didnt catch a good wave. You tried it and enjoyed every second of the session.

Recently I bought cheap surf hats online because I like surfing.
  • 1
 
Jul 25, 2020 - 1:01pm

sambillingswk:

Surfing feels like you have a free ride from Nature

Yes

"If you always put limits on everything you do, physical or anything else, it will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them." - Bruce Lee

  • 1
 
  • Analyst 2 in AM - Other
Jul 23, 2020 - 9:50pm

The Algarve region in Portugal. Everything is cheap, the country is easy to navigate, it's got a lot of European history to it if you want to go check out Lisbon, and it is one of the best places to surf in the world. Only downside is the water never really warms up, even in the summer. I barebacked in August but would definitely have been more comfortable with a thin wetsuit.

 
Jul 23, 2020 - 10:01pm

PE investor working in south orange county, if you ever want to network and crush waves in san clamente/trestles bang my line

Array
 
Jul 25, 2020 - 12:51pm

cabbagecorpIPO:

PE investor working in south orange county, if you ever want to network and crush waves in san clamente/trestles bang my line

nice

san 'clamente' lol

"If you always put limits on everything you do, physical or anything else, it will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them." - Bruce Lee

 
Feb 5, 2021 - 3:53am

Sweet

"If you always put limits on everything you do, physical or anything else, it will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them." - Bruce Lee

 
Feb 10, 2021 - 9:43am

I know this thread was necro'd, but I love surfing so wanted to opine

I personally think one of the best places to learn would be southern california during the week and during a down swell. the waves are usually waist high at windansea, blacks, etc., minimum, and they're gentle, plenty of board rentals around, super easy. downside is there's not a low CoL, but you'll get a lot of reps in. once you can reliably catch waist-chest high waves and go down the line, try to do the same with a shortboard (something under 6'6") and get used to pumping a bit to control speed, going right and left, don't worry about turns, just get used to getting to your feet, catching waves, and going down the line.

once you've got that down, you can ride bigger stuff. if it's over summer, look at southern Baja, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua (unsure how safe Nica is these days). the downside is the south swells that they can be waist to chest high, or they can be DOH, so be ready to just sit on the beach and watch locals do their thing. I'd probably start with the Tamarindo/Nosara area of Costa Rica, less heavy than Baja, Nica, or central Costa Rica, equally consistent, and less rocky so better for beginners. plenty of lessons, tours, rentals, etc., in Tamarindo whereas Nica is more sparse and Baja is fine but idk that there's as much surf infrastructure there as there is for Tamarindo (plus the surf in Cabo isn't as world class as Costa)

for something like this, once you're used to waist to chest high stuff in california and have caught a head high wave, assuming your paddling is up to snuff, you can probably get away with a couple of volume-y shortboards. I'd start with a 6'3 or 6'6 if you're bigger and have lots of volume (over 32L minimum). this will give you enough maneuverability to carve and pump, but still short enough to not pearl the nose on every takeoff and still give you the ability to somewhat duckdive.

last thing I'll say is work on your swimming. work yourself up to being able to swim for an hour with a pull buoy. most of surfing is paddling, so your training should mimic that. strength and conditioning exercises are great, but you don't need to make it complex. do some kettlebell swings, do some pullups and pushups, do some cardio, but then get back in the pool and when you're gassed from that practice your carving on a skateboard (mimics the feeling of having to pump when your arms are tired from duckdiving 4 out of 5 waves in a set and you take off on the last one).

have fun, get ready for this to be the most important thing in your life (ask my wife)

 
Feb 10, 2021 - 3:39pm

make friends at your local surf shop. genuine interest combined with respect in the lineup will make you many friends who will be willing to show you the ropes. I know when I worked at shops and taught lessons, I was always happy to introduce a new surfer if they were respectful and curious. the absolute worst thing a beginner can do is try to jockey for position at trestles or some other marquee break and just piss off a bunch of locals and get in their way cause they don't know where to sit in the lineup.

 
Feb 10, 2021 - 4:49pm

I've surfed a variety of places, including East Coast (Florida, SC, OBX), West Coast (SoCal - Encinitas, Blacks), Mexico (Sayulita), France (Hossegor), South Africa (Jeffrey's Bay), Indonesia (Lakey Peak), Australia (Bell's Beach)

I've never been injured surfing and have seen a sharkΒ only once in South Africa. Favorite wave was probably in France. Head high waves glassy waist deep barreling. Lots of fun, but got severe sunburn as we were surfing all day there in boardshorts.

Β 

"If you always put limits on everything you do, physical or anything else, it will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them." - Bruce Lee

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