Boutique Watch for a Boutique Shop
Hey guys,I'm in the process of buying my first watch, and I could use some recommendations. I'm graduating university this semester, so the watch will be a graduation gift. My budget is ~$35k.
I'm looking for a watch I could wear to work and at nice events & dinners. The shop I'm joining after graduating is very small: 2 partners and no Directors/VPs/Associates. I will be the only analyst. The partners have very luxurious tastes, so I think (and I could be wrong) that wearing a watch in that price range would be fine, so long as it's not flashy.
My favorite watch right now is a Breguet Classique. I'm very interested in astronomy/astrophysics, so a watch that gives the moon phase is preferable, though not a necessity. Name brands with limited functions (e.g. AP Royal Oak) don't interest me as much, though some special edition Rolexes look interesting (e.g. Submariner Kermit). I'm looking at used watches on Chrono24 because new watches take a long time to deliver (not to mention prices/models might change). I also have a relatively thin wrist if that matters.
Any advise on watch brands/models in that price range or advise on wearing a luxurious watch in the office is greatly appreciated!
Just buy a Submariner like everyone else…
The watches you mention are very different, are you looking for a dressier watch or something more sporty? Something on a leather strap? Precious metal? Any specific functionality (moonphase? annual calendar?)? How big is your wrist? You want to make sure the watch fits well (some can look ridiculous on small wrists). Happy to give some recommendations if you narrow some of this down, there are some great brands and many that you can buy new.
Honestly not sure between sporty or dressy. I don’t go to many events that justify a very dressy watch, but I do want something that I could potentially wear to work and is not flashy. No preference between leather or not, though I’ve heard leather is harder to care for. For functionality, I do appreciate unique time features, especially moon phase. Perpetual calendar is also very interesting, though I have had a hard time finding watches in my price range with perpetual calendars that don’t feel squeezed together.
Also, my wrist is 15.5cm.
I appreciate the help!
At 15.5cm I would probably stick with smaller watches, 40mm or under, although the design matters. Watches with more curved lugs and without large pushers will wear smaller. Also the size of bezel will matter for how it looks on your wrist.
I would go with a sportier watch than a Breguet Classique but it all depends on how your office dresses. I actually own a Breguet Classique (black alligator strap and gold case) but never wear it because I feel it stands out too much and I am worried about how much wear and tear it can take. I wear a Rolex Explorer II most days which is perfect because it better matches my work outfits better than a more "fancy watch" and I am not concerned about scratching it. If you want to go with a "higher" level brand than Rolex, you may need to up your budget since you don't like AP.
I don’t think the OP would have to go higher budget, there are plenty of “top” brands (higher level of finishing than Rolex) that are under $35k, the problem right now is that the market for a sports watch is still a bit crazy.
But sports watches that you can buy without a wait, under $35k (with finishing similar or better than Rolex):
Glashutte SeaQ
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
Moser Heritage (or pioneer if you need water resistance)
JLC Polaris (you can get the perpetual calendar for under $35k)
Edit: forgot about zenith and Parmigiani (tonda being a good one)
With some wait, but attainable:
Czapek Antarctique (18 month wait or so)
Gronefeld Deltaworks (LONG wait and big size at 45mm) - but $55k
Romain Gauthier Continuum (1-2 year wait) - around $40k
Not attainable but would be right priced at msrp:
Patek Nautilus or Aquanaut
AP royal oak (but you aren’t a fan)
Have more recommendations if people are interested.
Thanks for the great list! Lot of brands here that I’ve never heard of before, so I’ll have an exciting few days going through their models. I particularly liked the Glashutte and Moser Heritage you recommended, though the Continuum is my favorite. Do you know how difficult is it to join the waitlist?
Thanks for the help!
Wow, that is a great list. You seem to have a wealth of information.
What is the best way to get a relationship with a new AD?
I want a Yacht Master 40 and have no issue waiting, I just want something new opposed to a used watch. I have 2 other Rolex but they were purchased in another country.
Honestly some of the AD games are ridiculous (as are some of the people). What are you looking for? I try to stick with one AD so that I can have an established spend with them if trying to get something that’s a bit harder to find. What area are you in? I would find an AD that covers enough brands that you may be interested in and then stop on in and have an honest chat about what you are looking for. You will get a sense of whether or not the place will work with you. When I started working with my AD, I just chatted them up about watches and then let them know the stuff I was interested in (and why). I had done this at a few places and you will know when you are being blown off. I would never buy something you don’t want just to get in line for something you do want, especially with brands like Rolex where there is supply.
A Lange Sohne or a Vacheron
Really like the Lange Sohne. The Vacheron is a beautiful watch, but the ones in my price range lack functionalities unfortunately. Maybe once I work a few years on the job I can take another look lol
Hey, man - if you don't mind me asking, how were you able to get a full-time offer at a shop that size? I'm interning at 3 man boutique and would love to stay there full time once I graduate this year. Firm has been around for 3 years and they have never had a traditional VP/associate/analyst. Are there really firms that small that hire analysts?
Happy to share - PM me
Despite being a larger person (6’2” and >200lbs), I have tiny wrists. I don’t own one but have borrowed from my friend with an extensive collection. I’ve found that Jaeger Lecoultre works well for smaller wrists and should have a bunch of options in your price range.
Bro who tf gets a 35k budget for a graduation gift holy shit lol
As stated above JLC can work well for smaller wrists. I'm partial to the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar which includes a moon phase, which would fall into your budget range
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