Which tailors do you guys use in NYC?
There're a lot of one-man shops doing measuring + outsourced manufacturing in China for ~$700. There are also proper tailors with imported fabric (Leonard Longsdail, Barchi, etc.) around the $1600 range. Then there's midpoint with MTM from Suit Supply or Alton Lane.
Has anyone made suits across the spectrum and have an opinion on value-add of going upscale?
Enzo's
Would second this. Significantly better construction than prior BB suits I've owned, 30ish measurements up front, extremely flexible in working with you to tweak the suits over a period of time after you've already received it, and great fit IME.
Can't say I have much experience with other places but been very happy with my ~750 dollar suits from Enzo.
Made to measure, like bespoke, is a rather iterative process. Don't count on the first to be perfect...so it doesn't really make sense to spend extreme sums of money. Find someone that knows how to take measurements, offers alterations, and seems to be a decent, stand-up guy.
The tell-tale sign of shitty, cheap MTM is that they promise "perfect" fit. Then when you end up with a piece of shit suit, they refuse to do alterations, refuse refunds, and are in general difficult to work with. They go on volume, and hire new (often very beginner) people all the time.
For the premium, you get: -Experienced professionals to measure you -Premium fabrics -Better construction -Time consuming hand-work
I'd say that the first point is paramount when dealing with MTM. The suit could rival Rubinacci in quality, but if it's a fairly clueless person taking measurements, you'll end up with a product that looks so.
As for the rest...if you don't care whether the suit has half or full canvass construction, is hand sewn, etc. just settle for the mid tier. In the 1500 range you should also have many other options, like bigger brand. Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Brooks Brothers, and the list goes on...
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