It is time to upgrade!
Like many of us on WSO I got my navy and charcoal suits, 4-6 white and blue dress shirts, my Allen Edmond (AE) park avenue shoes, and made it through the interviews and internship.
Now that I am starting full time I would like to build a wardrobe of 4-5 custom suits I wear consistently. What felt like a simple task of adding in conservative suits of slightly different navy's and grey's has turned into a complicated custom suit adventure as I navigate the never ending world of fabric colors, weaves and patterns.
Now to be fair, I am making this more complicated. So if you were jumping in here to tell me something like "no brown in town" or "I like to go navy for my first suit" thanks but no thanks prospect.
As an incoming overpaid associate I am willing to spend a good amount of money on my wardrobe but also don't want to screw it up. My body is an odd slim shape so having custom fitting is important for me to look professional. I found a good tailor with a cut that fits me well and reasonable prices. I don't have many expensive hobbies, not into watches or fancy whiskeys, so paying $1-2k (which is what I will be paying for Loro Piana custom MTM suits, don't need help here) per suit is fine as long as I use it for 3-5 years.
Some will read this and think "why doesn't he just tell his tailor he wants something standard?" The truth is your bosses and bosses bosses are all wearing a combination and variety of different suit/shirt color, patterns, weaves, materials that all appear as "standard" to our simpleton minds. And since I can't afford a $7k/suit Saville row bespoke fashionista tailor like John Weinberg, I am asking my fellow internet monkeys for advice!
For those who have advanced to custom/bespoke suit buying or are comfortable sharing your personal style, here are some questions I have for you:
1. Suit Fabric - What type of fabric weight and super (S) count do you usually go with? In the past my suits have all been standard S110s and usually 280g+. I'm finding that in the summertime these are pretty heavy and hot and I would like something lighter. In addition, finer fabrics (Super150+), seem smoother and more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, while also being lighter (usually 250g). I've heard these finer fabrics can wear faster, what has been your experience? Can the heat concern also be addressed with half or quarter lining? Do you lose formality doing less lining?
2. Fabric Pattern - Birdseye, Nailhead, Sharkskin, Herringbone, Plain weave? What are the general fabric patterns for an environment like Investment Banking/Private Equity? Are certain patterns too bold? I imagine it depends. Do you diversify? I've heard Birdseye and Sharkskin are safe for "the boardroom" and are formal. (Assuming 100% wool fabrics here and no linen, silk, cashmere, but am open to suggestions) Here is a list of S170 Loro Piana fabrics I am looking at. I know I can't pull off pinstripes, check, creams/browns, linens, probably not Herringbone either, but are Sharkskins like N13041/N13047 too aggressive? Should I stick with something even simpler (like N13063) so I don't look like a goof?
3. Color - Simpler question. Not a huge fane of check print but do people ever do windowpane? I don't see much light grey I'm guessing it isn't that formal? Charcoal, medium grey, navy, and dark blues seem to represent 95%+ of the suits I see on the street. Going to stick with those unless I get a sense I have a greenlight to do otherwise.
4. Shirt patterns - Yes we do white and blues with suits but does everyone keep it standard with poplin (broadscloth) and oxford weaves? Or do you ever branch out and do twill, jacquard, herringbone, royal oxford? Do certain patterns go better with specific suits? Just curious...
5. Suit features - I'm assuming notched lapels until I'm David Solomon? Do you guys do belt loops on every pair of slacks? Is half or quarter lining appropriate? Do you ever cuff the slacks? Always go with structured shoulders?
6. Shoes - Now I know this is a topic big enough it deserves its own post but!... when do you bust out the loafers with a suit? Socks or no socks? Gucci/Ferragamo bit loafers at a client meeting? (Seems bold but what do I know) If I want to upgrade my oxfords from AEs what is a good brand to go with? Everyone says "no brown in town" but they clearly haven't been outside because I see it all the time.
For all the high school prospects on this forum (90% lol) this post is useless but for you seasoned financiers that appreciate the sartorial arts... I long for your wisdom! Feel free to share you style and personal fashion choices, thank you for taking the time, and answer whatever questions you like :)
TLDR: BOLD
Edit: There seems to be some confusion regarding my post and I apologize if this is my fault. I do not need help finding a place to get the suits made or cheap brands. I already have a tailor that will custom make a MTM suit with the custom fabric of my choice at a price point I am comfortable with.
You are going to have to increase your budget. Even on the "low" end, a good bespoke suit is between $2-3k nowadays. $1k? Not too many bespoke makers are that price point, that's still made-to-measure territory.
Correct, I won't be doing "bespoke." True bespoke is minimum $3k+ and I'm not ready for that yet lol. It will be MTM but since I like the cut I'm okay with this. You can make enough fit/style adjustments to really have a custom fit/look.
I still don't think you're on the right track. You say MTM but you post/ask questions like you want bespoke. So make sure you're accurate in what you're asking if you expect people to help you.
If you're in NY check out Allan David. Wonderful bespoke suits, starting at 2.5K.
Fuckin commercial banker bustin up my thread gtfoh and go back to brooks brothers
Is that supposed to make me feel bad, son??? "go back to brooks brothers"???? OHHH BUUUUURRRRRNNNNNN!!!!!
Your thread sucks anyways, son.
I bet this commercial banker gets upset when he realizes that he can’t ever get to high finance. Had to settle for a shitty commercial banking job.
Lol it's clear this conversation is over ur head."Here are my specific questions about custom suit/shirt fabrics, colors and patterns"incomes guy who only buys off the rack"WHY YOU ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT BESPOKE!!? Hmm?"^Clearly something an off the rack only dweeb would say who has never been in a bespoke shop^Haha fckn bum, be gone with ur machine sown shitty threads
this comment reminds me of 2007 WSO comments
Saw ten replies and figured I’d check out what the crowd views on custom suits are. Zero comments actually answered any of the questions in OP. Classic WSO, when will I ever learn…
Sorry dude I wish
Yeah it's hilarious. classic
With your budget you probably need to fly to Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, or Taiwan and get suits made. I think in Taiwan you can get bespoke suits for $400(?) Vietnam and Cambodia definitely less and they'll make the suits out of whatever the fuck you want. Round-trip flights will set you back $2k though
Lol I didn't ask about budget, I didn't ask about where to get suits, I'm asking about what fabric types people like, shirt types, suit color variety, shoes,…I don't need to go to somewhere in Asia to get my suits made. I already have the place and it priced out. Just looking for style tips.
Cambodia? Who gets clothes made in Cambodia?
You might get a well-fitting suit copied in Asia but never let them fit you. You’ll end up looking like a mid-level member of the Chinese Communist Party.
At your budget you should be looking at MTM or tailored OTR. I highly suggest Ralph Lauren Polo MTM and OTR Tailored. The quality far supersedes SuitSupply and in my opinion brooks brothers slightly. The other benefit is that unlike a fast fashion Chinese store like suitsupply, everything at Ralph Lauren will be classy. They don’t allow too ridiculous changes or colours, and their associates will be extremely helpful in picking out customizations if you do their MTM.
Everything is made in Italy or the US and from premium mills. Not Loro Piana, but even suitsupply (which has garbage construction and makes everything in China for pennies) will charge at-least $1,600 for anything Loro Piana. Their fabrics understandably are just outside your price range.
For customizations I tend to keep it traditional and tame. No super skinny lapels, or yoga fitting pants, or notch lapels etc.
Further any OTR suit from Ralph can be tailored in house at any of their flagship stores and customized to a degree (buttons, belt loops, pockets, etc.). They will look great and be much nicer quality.
For shirts I would go to Spier and Mackay for under $120, and T&A if you’re willing to pay for custom shirting and can be fitted ($600+/shirt). Biggest thing is no non wrinkle properties (destroys breathability with exception of Eton) and natraul buttons (mother of pearl or shell). Absolutely non of that plastic garbage. I prefer more contemporary spreads of collars and a mix of French cuff and more normal buttoned cuffed shirts personally with pastel colors and traditional stripes (English blues, and bengal to name a few). Nothing outlandish, no yellows, no modern shirting patterns.
For shoes I personally have never been a fan of Allen Edmonds, the cuts are just not for me. On the cheaper side of things Cole Haan will do you well. On the pricier ($500-$1200) Crockett and Jones has high quality shoes. Once you head close to $1,000 you’re approaching bespoke shoe territory which will always be better. Personally I prefer whole cut oxfords but ultimately your decision.
Thank you for the detailed reply.There seems to be some confusion in the comments. I already have a place where I can get quality Loro Piana fabric custom made MTM suits at a reasonable price. I do not need help in those areas.Thank you for the comments regarding style. I haven't done French cuffs on shirts but am thinking of trying it. Crockett and Jones is a brand I keep hearing so I need to check them. I like AE but I don't like that they have become so universal.
Also in that range Ferragamo dress shoes are great ($8-900 minimum).
Where u getting the LP fabric MTM suits for reasonable price?
You can get custom for 1500-2k. Maybe 2500 … still fully bespoke. It’s the fabric that matters for the cost (can get Loro or some dormeuil at that price). Shit can go up to 20k plus obviously just tell the dude ur range. Knotstandard. Or Michael Andrew’s. Few other Just google it. Both of these places you’ll hit that price and can pick literally every option (lapels, vents, pleats, buttons, lining, structure, double/single, pockets style/ ticket pocket, monogram etc… and style/fabric/etc possible. I think Alton lane too but never been tho? Proper cloth I think does suits too now, I’ve just used for shirts… A few others but they’re more 5-7k min. Legit savile row bros but I’ve done both. For work just do the 2k ones. The few I mentioned are a little more commercial now vs getting some savile trained / apprenticed old dude vibe but it’s 2-3x cost.
It seems to be everyone's move here is to tell me about cost and where to get what. I'm asking about style. I already have the tailor and the prices set for that Loro Piana S170 book of fabric.For your custom suits, however you had them made, what type of pattern were your suits? What super count are your suits? What type of lining do you do? Do consistently use the same type of white shirt or do you switch up the pattern? Different colors etc.
I mean talk to your tailor… Flip thru the books, prior suits he made, and pick your preferences. You asking me to pick the color?
… but mostly what you said… navy and grey/charcoal. I personally don’t love the greys. I have some but I always find myself picking a new navy ish one/grabbing a navy suit for an event / work/ wedding. So mostly various navys/blues (not bright). Maybe a navy, light navy blue/ blue blue, med grey, charcoal and then some lightly patterned navy (something you barely see… dark windowpane or micro pinstrip). White shirts or just very very light blue. Maybe very very light pink or some lightly checked white/light blue. Again shit you wouldn’t notice unless 5 feet away.
For work, fully line suits. Half is informal usually (summer suits/blazers etc). Mostly notch lapel if trying to be more conservative but peak is fine also. Maybe toss peak on the one you get some light pattern on… could be your wedding suit too / less conservative suit.
2 button jacket. Single vent in the back is more standard vs double/English style. But who cares really. Pockets should be the normal covered ones idk what they’re called. Fine to add a ticket pocket on a suit or 2.
And then just switch hit better all the suits / shirts.
The one thing I recommend is having an older gentlemen measure you. They will likely have more established clients who have a keen eye for the best patterns on fabrics, know what looks good on you, what will last in terms of style and how to measure you so you’re comfortable while still looking good.
With regard to shoes you want to be able to cycle them. The last thing you need is your foot odor stinking up the board room.
If there are any budget constraints building out the wardrobe over time is better than splurging up front. This allows you to see what is worn at the office and identify subtle ways to stand out. You can save on shoes up front with lower end brands and start adding higher quality as time moves on and cash flows in.
Remember you want to look like you perform at a bank and not a circus.
Thank you for actually answering some my questions and not giving me various suit price points and brands.Do you have a recommendation for shoes outside of standard black/brown oxfords that you keep in your rotation?
I normally see all shoes as being black or some form of brown. Brown is where you can get a bit more diversity - e.g. bourbon (when available), chili and so on. I’d focus more on the differences on overall shoe. I like mine to have either a wing tip or cap toe of some sort. It’s subtle, but looks nice.
Would recommend against this. Most older gentleman tailors I’ve used have fitted me for a fit they’d wear and are hesitant to even consider something remotely slim fitting.
I’m a larger guy in general so it may be my bias. Regardless of whether I was in the army or fresh out of college, a slimmer fit suit always bothered me. I hate the feeling of it pulling against my shoulders or back. It is probably from watching tommy boy too many times, but I always felt like I was doing the ‘fat man in little coat’ routine. When I started getting MTM I thought at first it was because they were off the rack. Eventually, I ended up getting a MTM suit from a local shop with a younger tailor and it gives the same effect. Don’t get me wrong it looks a good and is a bit more fashionable, however, it isn’t a massive improvement in terms of looks. That being said, its very much to each his own!
Just go to suit supply. They'll tailor your suit for free and all suits are under 1k and amazing quality.
Jesus. Clearly didn't read a single word lol
This thread is far more entertaining then it would of been had it stayed on topic
I'll bite - I'm guessing you're based out of London. You should be able to find bespoke suits at the higher end of that range. These will typically be younger tailors who are trying to establish a name for themselves. There's a tailor an experienced tailor in London around that range who outsources his production to Saville Row trained tailors in Asia (they work exclusively for him). I'll try to find the name for you but I recommend searching on styleforum. I've also heard good things about Steed but that's more MTM apparently.
To answer your questions:
1- Suit Fabric: Ignore the S1## to a certain extent as its more of a marketing gimmick. That being said, you don't want anything superfine. Assuming these are day to day wear for work, I'd get something Fine Worsted. On the lower $ range end, I'd recommend Dugdale NFW; on the higher end Fine Worsted by Fox Brothers. They both have a starchier feel to it (nothing like S170, closer to S100), but they last long, are very breathable, have solid drape, and retain their crease easily; they don't wrinkle much either. Here an example of how it looks
2- Pattern: Go for something plain like sharkskin to be honest. I'm not a huge fan of Nailhead or Birdseye, but to each their own. Prince of Wales can work as long as its subtle. I'd go herringbone on fancier/more formal fabrics as they elevate the look much better. Here is an example
3- Color: Stick with those unless your are going for a sport coat. Sport coats can be a more casual statement piece but I recommend getting those once you build your collection.
4- Shirt: Depends if you wear a tie - If you wear a tie, stick to solid white or blue (make sure to have a wide spread - you want to avoid looking like this). If no tie then I'd recomment striped (white w/ blue bengal stripes) or plain with a slight cutawar collar.
5- Suit Features: I tend to go softer shoulder as I have broad shoulders. If you're skinny go with a structured shoulder. Lapel sizing should be on the larger end IMO, as it makes you look more muscular (its all about proportions). I'd personally go with Besom pockets as they are more versatile and cleaner (even though more formal) - its the little things that elevate the look. In terms of pants, make sure they are sitting on your hip bone. Most people nowadays have low rises which makes their legs look short and stumpy. You want it to look like this --> this also makes you look taller. Pleats are a matter of preferance, but I'd recommend single reverse pleat. Also get the trousers front lined to the knee - It helps durability. For jacket, I'd recomment a butterfly lining so you keep the breathability.
6- Shoes: TLB Artista. Carmina is also a good option too.
Thank you thank you. This is great.1. S170 is pretty fine, I'll see how this new S150 suit I got holds up. Also looking into some Zegna/VBC/Reda S120s. Do you recommend double trousers for finer fabrics? 2. To my knowledge neither of my first 2 custom suits have any specific weave/pattern/texture (whatever its called) like nailshead, birdseye, or sharkskin and are all "plain." Looking to change it up for the next suit and was think of doing this dark blue (N13047) but don't want to be too aggressive. 3. Everyone above was dumping on grey and I get it, seems boring, but anytime I search a google images on a senior banker, medium grey/charcoal is almost all I see. 4. Yep. Sticking to solid white and light blue shirts.5. Been going with 8.5cm (3.25inch) lapels, seems standard, thinking about trying 9.5cm (3.5inch). Never tried Besom pockets but looked it up and it does give a new look. 6. Shoe recs look solid, I will for sure dig around.Thank you again!
S170 is way too fine for work in my opinion - Those fabrics are usually for very formal events and wrinkle and wear too easily. If your tailor is recommending those fabrics for workwear, then you should find a new tailor as he's not looking out for your best interest (unless you don't care about buying new suits every year).
Nailsheard, Birdseye are all "plain". I'm just not a fan of it up close/feel wise. I typically like sharkskin or a twill-like weave.
I tend to double my trousers as those are always the first thing to go bad - I also tend to rotate the trousers to keep even wear to match with the jacket (fabrics fade slightly over time)
Old thread but my 2c, disagree with some of these things here, if you read anything let it be my last sentence.
1. Disagree on poster on brown shoes in Lon, yes its an old saying, but still if the brown is too light you look like a real estate agent/insurance salesman. IMO save it for the weekend, why risk giving a bad impression to someone when you have plenty of options to work with in black.
2. Big fan of a subtle herringbone on less formal fabric too.
3. MTM is hard to find for a reasonable price right now. FWIW G&H was the cheapest reputable one I could find with a £950 special in Jan (many discounts around then) and was completely booked out through to April sale end. Probably still looking at 1.5K+ for MTM but that's possibly because I don't know the hidden gems.
4. Shirt wise if you have a unique body shape and would benefit from bespoke shirts, they are much cheaper in Europe e.g. Spain, Italy, maybe France where there exist more local tailors. Obv this only makes sense if you are in Lon/EU already.
5. Church's is one step up above AE/Loake for shoes and is good especially if you can get a sale (e.g. outlets). Haven't seen it mentioned here.
Ultimately I'll eat some of my words and say as great as it is hearing WSO's opinion on this you have to find your own style eventually and that's more important than anything else. You can get away with a lot depending how you carry yourself, e.g. bolder fabrics, loafers to meetings, etc.. . Example from last summer intern BB cohort, all but two interns dress conservatively. The other two wore chinos, bright/patterened shirts, gilets, button down collars, casual shoes. Similar talent, but one of them didn't get return and was told he wasn't professional. The other had his pick of soft offers from multiple groups, breakfasts with senior MD's, etc.. Only difference was how they were percieved by others
I legitimately like Jos A Banks a lot. You can get a custom suit for 400. High quality fabrics are on sale often. Although i was happy with the standard.
All of these users are clowns. I don't work in IB - I don't even work in finance at all. However, I work at an operating level in a tech firm, I'm certain that I make most of the posters' here annual compensation just through my equity payout yearly alone.I own a few VERY high end suits (13 to 14k) but in London, it is very possible to find a solid, bespoke suit around 2 to 2.5k (although it'll probably be a less experienced tailor you'll be working with).
Try RMO with your price range
You’re pretentious as fuck and annoying. Go away
Why is your username surrounding the Costco brand..?
Meermin and Carmina are great upgrades from AE
Came here to suggest this. Although I think Carmina is a step above Meermin. A few others to consider (in increasing order of cost): Grant stone, Alden, crocket & jones, Edward green.
Ferragamo is a fashion brand. You can get better quality construction/leather from some of these other brands.
Here’s sim actual advice from someone fairly well versed in MTM suiting;
1) go for a variety of colors within the dark/medium blue/charcoal/light gray range.
2) don’t personally agree with pinstripes / think they’re outdated. Don’t need to go with something as ostentatious as a windowpane fabric, but would actually do so and suggest mixing and matching the unique pattern tops with plain pants and vice-versa. Look into sharkfin (I believe that’s the name), Glen plaid, and similar patterns when you want to get crazy. Throw a herringbone in there too if you want.
3) the higher the fabric number (S150s, etc) will be very fine fabric and not at all something you should be wearing regularly. They’re made to be worn very lightly and only when you have a decent wardrobe and can rotate them in once a month would I consider anything in that tier. Typically, I don’t see a need to go for this and have most suits made in standard 110s for basics and 120s for other patterns. They’re workhorse fabrics and will last you a while, especially through repeated wears.
4) you don’t need peak lapels, maybe one is fine and do see them quite frequently believe it or not at the junior levels. I think times have changed and they’re becoming more acceptable. It’s certainly not on the level of a contrast white collar on shirts. Otherwise, just got for notch - don’t do slim notch either, that’s a current fashion fad and will fade out; stick with regular sized notch lapels ideally 3.5” if you have a choice.
5) ticket pockets, always. This is a standard tell tale sign of a custom / higher end suit these days. Most off the rack aren’t including them for some reason but it’s a very easy way to look like you’re wearing a very expensive suit.
6) side tabs > belt loops, always. Personal preference but I always get two pairs of suit pants - if you like wearing belts then perhaps get one in belt loops and one in side tabs. But ditching the belt will give you a lot more options and make getting ready easier that you don’t need to always look for a matching belt to your shoes, especially if you have a good collection and the belt doesn’t exactly match the shade of shoes, which looks off.
7) play around with the inner fabric lining - most MTM shops allow you some flexibility here so even a standard blue/charcoal suit can be bought a few times with varying inner fabric lining colors / patterns.
8) don’t wear a pocket square.
For shirts - you actually want to load up on Twill fabrics and non-iron, if possible. They’re the most wrinkle resistant and you can choose a higher woven thread count if you want shine vs matte. Solid color shirts (stick to pale light colors, nothing dark) goes with everything and patterned (Glen plaid, stripes, checks) should only be worn with solid color suits.
Go for a tall, higher spread collar. Even cutaway. Most people recommendations to “fit your face” only apply to shorter collars - once you adjust for a taller collar, you can really wear anything and look good - mostly spread/cutaway.
Best fashionable and classy casual style - Black Zip Up Hoodies - add personality to your wardrobe!
Your budget is let's say $7500 (given you said 4-5 suits at $1-2k per)...
Round trip flight to Bangkok - $1000
Week at a 4* hotel - $1000
Food, drinks, sightseeing, other "miscellaneous expenses" - $1-2000
5 custom suits at Tom's on Sukhumvit - $2500
Second week traveling in Phuket, Koh Samui, Chiang Mai, wherever - $1-2000
Thank me later.
Never asked for or mentioned a budget but everyone is so excited to give me one
.
Ignore the title - I have no clue how to change this - also apologies for formatting, currently editing on my phone and it does not really work
I am still at the beginning of my career, so honestly I can't speak as to whether the suit will last 5-10 years. Also I have worked/work in the UK/Germany so I do not know if the same social customs that apply here, are also acceptable in the US.
I mostly wear 2 made-to-measure suits, one plain light grey and one plain light navy blue. Also, I went all out and bought a 180s fabric.
Anyways, I am definitely one of the few people that wears a light grey suit in the office and while nobody ever said something directly to me, I dont know what they are thinking behind me back (so be careful with light grey colours).
Regarding fabric, I am totally happy with S180plus, they fill great and both suit look good. However, in the office I hardly were my jacket while working, so my elbows do not constantly slide across the desk, which lessens wear and tear.
Hope that answers your question in one way or another.
Also, one more general advice, I have noticed that below VP or even (E)D people usually do not care that much about the suit/watch (irrelevant in your case). Eveyone knows you cannot afford 5 different suits for 5k each. It might sound obvious but its much more important to be well groomed. Though this might sound obvious you have no idea how often you see someone that has a well tailored suit but long and dirty fingernails or greasy hair.
First off, understand that both MTM and bespoke are iterative processes. Yes, a good bespoke tailor will strive to produce a garment that fits as good as it can the first time around, but there are just so many adjustments that can be made - so by suit number 2, 3, etc. most imperfections will have been ironed out. Check out Simon Crompton / Permanent Style - he has tried out most brands and tailors in Europe, and even some of his high $ bespoke orders have had issues.
If I were you, I'd first check out MTM suits from known and established menswear stores. Brands like Corneliani, Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Caruso, etc. offer MTM/Su Misura all year round, and the most established stores have been partners for decades. How good a MTM project turns out often depends on the person measuring you. Some of these stores have MTM specials where you pay regular price, no extra fees - so basically the base price of a suit and whatever the fabric costs. I pay $1500-$1800 for a basic Corneliani or Canali MTM.
I don't like too fine fabric. It just isn't durable, and costs much more - so max Super 150- Super 160 for me. For a working suit, Super 100-Super 130. Regular twill works just fine for me, though birdseye / nailhead wears a bit slower. Save the Super 190++, 100% cashmere, etc. fabrics for later years when you can afford them.
As far as business-friendly patterns: Solid, hounds tooth, prince-of-wales check, micro checks, herringbone, thin pinstripe. Subtle patterns. Not too much contrast.
Notch or peak lapels, not too skinny or wide (3"-4"), 2-button front - though 3-roll-2 can work nicely. Single pocket on each side. Trousers are either flat front or single pleat, I honestly enjoy single pleat for the extra space. Belt or side adjusters, doesn't mater too much IMO - but belt would be the safe choice.
I wouldn't go for too soft shoulders - it gives a very casual, cardigan-like look. Shoulders are probably the most important part of the suit, and depends heavily on the person wearing it. Lightly padded works for most.
I wonder if one of my favorite corporate @lvmh is kind enough to helping me with grooming makeover ?
I am probably too late to help you so this is more so to help other people.
(0) It is possible to get quality bespoke tailoring at the $2-2.5k per suit range. You have to really look and be in the right place (ie - DC, NYC, Chicago) but it can be done.
(1) Generally speaking, the higher the super count the less durable it is. However, the difference is often pretty negligible if you are using higher end fabrics unless you are basically working a construction job in your suit. The quality of the build (aka is your tailor good?) will often have a greater impact on longevity then the super.
Lining is a factor in how warm a material is. No lining, or some amount less than full lining, could make your suit cooler. So can making it unconstructed. However, don’t go with unconstructed suits. Those are likely too casual. Also, I think you probably make the jacket less formal by having less than full lining but I wouldn’t worry about that.
(2) Birdseye, nailhead, sharkskin, herringbone, and a plain weave are all good options. Broadly speaking, the more of a design the less formal it is. keeping to your original list is definitely good but one could expand a little bit beyond that. I know you said you can’t pull off pinstripes but a lower-contrast vertical stripe design is a good way to get some variety (and it can help you look thinner).
(3) I think you are spot on color wise. The only thing I would add is that certain browns can look grey so that may be worth looking at as well.
(4) I am relatively… abnormal but I like to put in some design in my shirts. I just get too bored if everything is plain. In regards to weaves, I mostly have poplin weaves but I have at least two of every weave you listed. If you already have a good base of the “basic” weaves I would definitely expand out. I would just keep in mind that, assuming you want to look like everyone else (which isn’t meant to be an insult as it takes a certain type of person to be relatively fashion forward in a conservative dressing business), you generally want those more “basic” weaves to be your staple and these other ones to be more like little dashes of spice.
(5) In regards to features, stick with flap pockets, notch lapels, and single breasted suits. Also, if you are doing MTM, you should probably be getting full canvas suits. Shoulders are a bit more up to tastes in my view. You can go with a lot of structure or very little. I just wouldn’t go unconstructed and I wouldn’t get the shoulders pleated.
In terms of pants, I always get belts and have them made for suspenders too. I like three piece suits and when I wear the vest I always use suspenders. When I am not wearing the vest I use a belt. Some purists would say to never use suspenders with pants that have belt loops but that as applicable today as “no brown in town” is to shoes
(6) Now I can go on forever with shoes. A good “next brand up” from Allen Edmonds is Carmina. Another solid option is Loake. TLB Mallorca (which is effectively a bunch of Carmina people who went off on their own) is in a similar price point to AE but tend to be better quality. That may not be a “good enough” upgrade to AE to warrant the move but it is worth keeping in mind. You could also look at the ready-to-wear options from bespoke makers like John Loebb, George Cleverley, or Gaziano and Girling. G&G is pretty reasonable price-wise but Cleverly and Loebb will probably be much more expensive (I don’t remember exact prices as I am doing this off the top of my head).
“No brown in town” is an old school relic. It has no baring on fashion outside of very specific situations you probably won’t find yourself in.
I wear a variety of shoes. I tend to avoid loafers, especially when going to a client. But if you do, wear socks like you would with oxfords. Don’t break the line by showing skin. In addition to oxfords I regularly wear double monks and whole cuts in darker browns, blacks, and oxblood (a red-ish color). I also like a rather subtle museum calf (which is basically a marbling). I tend to avoid broguing. I have some boots that I wear too but I wouldn’t go the boot route until you have a good rotation of other shoes first.
There’s a great shop in midtown, Alan David. I just had a few shirts made and are going back to have suits as well. The experience was incredible, extremely helpful and overall exceeded expectations. It would be worth your time to swing by for a consultation. Suits start at around 2k, so it would definitely be at the top of your budget
Has anyone here commissioned a bespoke suite, and if you did, why did you do it? As a busy investor, and not a fashion designer, I feel like it would be way too time consuming make dozens of aesthetic design decisions about a suit, and I'd probably need to hire a designer to do it. I suppose if you really wanted certain design features, or just wanted a totally unique suit, it's not so expensive. But what about your time to think about all those details?
Very informative.
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