Custom Suit Discussion

You are going to have to increase your budget. Even on the "low" end, a good bespoke suit is between $2-3k nowadays. $1k? Not too many bespoke makers are that price point, that's still made-to-measure territory. 

Saw ten replies and figured I'd check out what the crowd views on custom suits are. Zero comments actually answered any of the questions in OP. Classic WSO, when will I ever learn…

With your budget you probably need to fly to Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, or Taiwan and get suits made. I think in Taiwan you can get bespoke suits for $400(?) Vietnam and Cambodia definitely less and they'll make the suits out of whatever the fuck you want. Round-trip flights will set you back $2k though

At your budget you should be looking at MTM or tailored OTR. I highly suggest Ralph Lauren Polo MTM and OTR Tailored. The quality far supersedes SuitSupply and in my opinion brooks brothers slightly. The other benefit is that unlike a fast fashion Chinese store like suitsupply, everything at Ralph Lauren will be classy. They don't allow too ridiculous changes or colours, and their associates will be extremely helpful in picking out customizations if you do their MTM.

Everything is made in Italy or the US and from premium mills. Not Loro Piana, but even suitsupply (which has garbage construction and makes everything in China for pennies) will charge at-least $1,600 for anything Loro Piana. Their fabrics understandably are just outside your price range.

For customizations I tend to keep it traditional and tame. No super skinny lapels, or yoga fitting pants, or notch lapels etc.

Further any OTR suit from Ralph can be tailored in house at any of their flagship stores and customized to a degree (buttons, belt loops, pockets, etc.). They will look great and be much nicer quality.

For shirts I would go to Spier and Mackay for under $120, and T&A if you're willing to pay for custom shirting and can be fitted ($600+/shirt). Biggest thing is no non wrinkle properties (destroys breathability with exception of Eton) and natraul buttons (mother of pearl or shell). Absolutely non of that plastic garbage. I prefer more contemporary spreads of collars and a mix of French cuff and more normal buttoned cuffed shirts personally with pastel colors and traditional stripes (English blues, and bengal to name a few). Nothing outlandish, no yellows, no modern shirting patterns.

For shoes I personally have never been a fan of Allen Edmonds, the cuts are just not for me. On the cheaper side of things Cole Haan will do you well. On the pricier ($500-$1200) Crockett and Jones has high quality shoes. Once you head close to $1,000 you're approaching bespoke shoe territory which will always be better. Personally I prefer whole cut oxfords but ultimately your decision.

You can get custom for 1500-2k. Maybe 2500 … still fully bespoke. It's the fabric that matters for the cost (can get Loro or some dormeuil at that price). Shit can go up to 20k plus obviously just tell the dude ur range. Knotstandard. Or Michael Andrew's. Few other Just google it. Both of these places you'll hit that price and can pick literally every option (lapels, vents, pleats, buttons, lining, structure, double/single, pockets style/ ticket pocket, monogram etc… and style/fabric/etc possible. I think Alton lane too but never been tho? Proper cloth I think does suits too now, I've just used for shirts… A few others but they're more 5-7k min. Legit savile row bros but I've done both. For work just do the 2k ones. The few I mentioned are a little more commercial now vs getting some savile trained / apprenticed old dude vibe but it's 2-3x cost.

The one thing I recommend is having an older gentlemen measure you.  They will likely have more established clients who have a keen eye for the best patterns on fabrics, know what looks good on you, what will last in terms of style and how to measure you so you're comfortable while still looking good.

With regard to shoes you want to be able to cycle them.  The last thing you need is your foot odor stinking up the board room.

If there are any budget constraints building out the wardrobe over time is better than splurging up front.  This allows you to see what is worn at the office and identify subtle ways to stand out.  You can save on shoes up front with lower end brands and start adding higher quality as time moves on and cash flows in.

Remember you want to look like you perform at a bank and not a circus.

Just go to suit supply. They'll tailor your suit for free and all suits are under 1k and amazing quality.

Jesus. Clearly didn't read a single word lol

This thread is far more entertaining then it would of been had it stayed on topic 

I'll bite - I'm guessing you're based out of London. You should be able to find bespoke suits at the higher end of that range. These will typically be younger tailors who are trying to establish a name for themselves. There's a tailor an experienced tailor in London around that range who outsources his production to Saville Row trained tailors in Asia (they work exclusively for him). I'll try to find the name for you but I recommend searching on styleforum. I've also heard good things about Steed but that's more MTM apparently.

To answer your questions:

1- Suit Fabric: Ignore the S1## to a certain extent as its more of a marketing gimmick. That being said, you don't want anything superfine. Assuming these are day to day wear for work, I'd get something Fine Worsted. On the lower $ range end, I'd recommend Dugdale NFW; on the higher end Fine Worsted by Fox Brothers. They both have a starchier feel to it (nothing like S170, closer to S100), but they last long, are very breathable, have solid drape, and retain their crease easily; they don't wrinkle much either. Here an example of how it looks 

2- Pattern: Go for something plain like sharkskin to be honest. I'm not a huge fan of Nailhead or Birdseye, but to each their own. Prince of Wales can work as long as its subtle. I'd go herringbone on fancier/more formal fabrics as they elevate the look much better. Here is an example

3- Color: Stick with those unless your are going for a sport coat. Sport coats can be a more casual statement piece but I recommend getting those once you build your collection.

4- Shirt: Depends if you wear a tie - If you wear a tie, stick to solid white or blue (make sure to have a wide spread - you want to avoid looking like this). If no tie then I'd recomment striped (white w/ blue bengal stripes) or plain with a slight cutawar collar.

5- Suit Features: I tend to go softer shoulder as I have broad shoulders. If you're skinny go with a structured shoulder. Lapel sizing should be on the larger end IMO, as it makes you look more muscular (its all about proportions). I'd personally go with Besom pockets as they are more versatile and cleaner (even though more formal) - its the little things that elevate the look. In terms of pants, make sure they are sitting on your hip bone. Most people nowadays have low rises which makes their legs look short and stumpy. You want it to look like this --> this also makes you look taller. Pleats are a matter of preferance, but I'd recommend single reverse pleat. Also get the trousers front lined to the knee - It helps durability. For jacket, I'd recomment a butterfly lining so you keep the breathability.

6- Shoes: TLB Artista. Carmina is also a good option too.

I legitimately like Jos A Banks a lot. You can get a custom suit for 400. High quality fabrics are on sale often. Although i was happy with the standard. 

All of these users are clowns. I don't work in IB - I don't even work in finance at all. However, I work at an operating level in a tech firm, I'm certain that I make most of the posters' here annual compensation just through my equity payout yearly alone.I own a few VERY high end suits (13 to 14k) but in London, it is very possible to find a solid, bespoke suit around 2 to 2.5k (although it'll probably be a less experienced tailor you'll be working with).

Try RMO with your price range

Meermin and Carmina are great upgrades from AE

Here's sim actual advice from someone fairly well versed in MTM suiting;

1) go for a variety of colors within the dark/medium blue/charcoal/light gray range.

2) don't personally agree with pinstripes / think they're outdated. Don't need to go with something as ostentatious as a windowpane fabric, but would actually do so and suggest mixing and matching the unique pattern tops with plain pants and vice-versa. Look into sharkfin (I believe that's the name), Glen plaid, and similar patterns when you want to get crazy. Throw a herringbone in there too if you want.

3) the higher the fabric number (S150s, etc) will be very fine fabric and not at all something you should be wearing regularly. They're made to be worn very lightly and only when you have a decent wardrobe and can rotate them in once a month would I consider anything in that tier. Typically, I don't see a need to go for this and have most suits made in standard 110s for basics and 120s for other patterns. They're workhorse fabrics and will last you a while, especially through repeated wears.

4) you don't need peak lapels, maybe one is fine and do see them quite frequently believe it or not at the junior levels. I think times have changed and they're becoming more acceptable. It's certainly not on the level of a contrast white collar on shirts. Otherwise, just got for notch - don't do slim notch either, that's a current fashion fad and will fade out; stick with regular sized notch lapels ideally 3.5" if you have a choice.

5) ticket pockets, always. This is a standard tell tale sign of a custom / higher end suit these days. Most off the rack aren't including them for some reason but it's a very easy way to look like you're wearing a very expensive suit.

6) side tabs > belt loops, always. Personal preference but I always get two pairs of suit pants - if you like wearing belts then perhaps get one in belt loops and one in side tabs. But ditching the belt will give you a lot more options and make getting ready easier that you don't need to always look for a matching belt to your shoes, especially if you have a good collection and the belt doesn't exactly match the shade of shoes, which looks off.

7) play around with the inner fabric lining - most MTM shops allow you some flexibility here so even a standard blue/charcoal suit can be bought a few times with varying inner fabric lining colors / patterns.

8) don't wear a pocket square.