Watch Collection
Ignore the title: ASO 1. I'm hoping some of my fellow watch enthusiasts will chime in. My current daily is a Rolex GMT-Master. I also have a Tudor Black Bay, but I haven't worn it since getting the GMT. I'm currently debating trading in either one or both of the watches to start a collection where I have a more solid rotation. My current thoughts are to trade in both watches and buy a Cartier Santos Large, Omega Speedmaster on the nylon strap, and something else (or maybe just keep the Tudor). This would allow me to have a dress watch in the Cartier, a workout/golf/casual watch in the Omega, and an everyday watch in the Tudor or something else. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Should I stick with effectively one piece, the GMT, that is more expensive, or would you suggest diversifying into a greater variety of less expensive watches? Right now, I feel like the Rolex and Tudor serve the same purpose, but I enjoy wearing the Rolex more (the Tudor just sits in its box).
I’m very into watches and that collection seems less diversified than I would like. The Cartier is a bit dressy but not that much and you don’t have any complications (outside of the gmt). I have a sports watch/every day, something more fun that can be worn with different outfits (maybe a moon phase or perpetual, even a chronograph would do), and something very dressy for a suit (preferably slim as well). I like having pretty different looks across my watches because if not you run into the problem you have; when watches are so similar (your Tudor and Rolex) one just ends up sitting in a box.
Would you mind sharing the watches you described in your collection?
Also agree with you to get rid of the Tudor.
I personally have a Datejust though I do want to eventually get a Seamaster and a Cellini or IWC. Hopefully after getting a house and kids I can eventually move up to the Pateks, JLC, etc.
Sure, I will say I’m many years into my watch obsession, so I’ll go through my early collection and then talk about where I am now:
Early on:
Started with an omega seamaster as my every day watch. Added a Cartier tank as a dressy option. Then added a JLC ultra thin moon as a bit of a mix between dressy and fun (also then got a Glashutte Panomatic lunar which I think is more versatile)
Now:
I actually have two sport watches: Romain Gauthier Continuum and VC overseas
My more “fun” watch (which is still dressy) is a Patek 5236
Then for a time only “dressy” I have a Laurent Ferrier (waiting on a voutilainen)
Got a couple suggestions. No doubt you’re going to end up with a great collection if you’re planning it out. I didn’t plan mine out, so I have 4-5 good watches and the rest are random cheap bullshit (but kind of fun anyway). Would love to do it over again and stick to quality.
Your GMT Master is a banger of a watch and I think you should keep it over the Black Bay. There’s overlap in styling and you can easily get another Tudor if you end up missing it. The GMT easily covers your travel, diver, and everyday categories. I have a microbrand GMT diver and it’s my most worn out of 10+ watches. Can’t beat the functionality of another time zone. I would only replace this watch with a high end travel / dual time complication from Patek or VC.
If you added any pieces to the collection I would first go all out on a really good dress watch. Something like a JLC, A Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe (Calatrava), or Glasshütte Original. You can get a GO Senator with a moonphase complication. Really beautiful and elegant piece. You also can’t go wrong picking up a Datejust from Bob’s watches if you’re partial to Rolex.
After that you should pick up a field / pilot watch as your beater. Something like a Sinn 556 or 356. Other options could be the Seiko Alpinist, Hamilton Khaki Field, IWC Pilot watches etc. I have a black Alpinist from Japan and it’s really solid.
If you’re into dials or the mechanical aspect, you owe it to yourself to try on a Grand Seiko Spring Drive. The dials are all insanely detailed and the smooth sweeping seconds hand looks unreal in person.
Whatever you get though, shop for yourself and just buy what you think will get wrist time and be fun to wear.
Glashutte PanoMaticLunar is such an incredible watch, I honestly like it more than the ALS One Moonphase.
I would sell everything except the GMT
Then grab a dressier piece with solid finishing
If you go Omega, consider vintage. IMO the matte dial look on vintage + aged lume is unbeatable! Here are my two vintage babies from the 60s
That sub is incredible, love the strap too. Well done sir.
Yeah the Rolex is super cool. Do you run into any issues with vintage watches? Or are they fine once they are serviced?
It's getting thrown on a tropic strap that just arrived today. Rubber straps + subs = awesome IMO!
Asso 1 here as well. Got the following:
- longines hydroconquest
- tudor royal date blue
- tudor black bay chrono steel & gold
- sugess worldtimer
- maurice lacroix aikon green
- baume mercieer classima
- casio to hit the gym
Hows the aikon in green? Been debating grabbing one but can't decide.
Absolutely love the Tudor Chrono, how does it wear?
Below my collection, in order of purchase:
- 2018 Rolex Datejust 41mm (blue dial, smooth bezel, jubilee bracelet)
- 1993 Rolex GMT Master 1 Pepsi (Ref: 16700)
- 2020 Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue
- 1990 Rolex Submariner (Ref: 16610)
- 1982 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Ref: 4100ST)
- SwatchxOmega Moonswatch (Earth Mission)
Wow how do you like the 4100ST? That’s a grail of mine for sure.
I'm not a watch wearer myself but I have a morbid curiosity about the adoption of "super clone" watches and what impact they might have on the industry.
For those who don't know: these are not the $200 fake sold in times square, they are more like ~$1,000 made with the same raw materials as the real deal. These are now so good that dealers need magnification to catch the differences. Movements have more obvious differences, but I'm hearing they're still decent movements.
I imagine these will not impact the ultra high end market, for many reasons.
But the accessible $10k-40k market feels like it would be impacted quite a bit by this, no? I know lots of people who can afford a $30k watch, want the $30k watch, but would really love to keep $29k if they could. And while it may "not feel right" to wear a fake, I imagine saving 97% might do nice things for one's feelings.
A natural response might be that the real $30k Rolex will hold its value over time so why pay anything for a fake? But that's exactly where I get the most curious . . will the historical pattern of value retention up in a future where an increasing % of the market wants the fake, thanks to these advancements?
What are some of these "Super clone" brands? I have heard of them but never actually seen them and don't know of any (besides 'homage' watches like many Seikos and Tudors with Rolex sort of).
They aren't brands themselves, they're very high-end fakes. They aren't some cheap Chinese copy with a Rolex logo slapped on it, they pay a ton of attention to the dial/finish, they use the same blends of metals, they copy the movement architecture, and as a result end up being a few thousand dollars. Still way cheaper than buying the real deal. Mostly you'll find time-only or simple calendar models, as the complications get more advanced it's harder for them to build without just becoming top watchmakers themselves, haha, so you aren't finding any perpetual calendars or split-second chronos.
keep your gmt and get another gmt double up
GMT on both wrists to keep track of up to 6 time zones at once
My 2c: you can only wear one watch on your wrist at a time. I have a Tudor black bay pro and daily it, along with a dress watch for formal occasions. I wouldn't travel with a Rolex for the high profile but would otherwise daily it. A beat up GMT is iconic. Maybe go with a Longines Zulu time as a travel piece. Can't go wrong with a speedmaster and santos, both iconic pieces and both would be staples in a well rounded collection. All speedmasters will come with the micro adjustment seen on the ‘57 collection and that’s what I’ve been waiting for. It’s next on my list.
The green Longines Zulu time is beautiful. I bought a BB58 with the gilt recently but debated trading it in/selling if for the Zulu time.
Almost pulled the trigger on a green Zulu. A truly stunning watch.
Keep the GMT. Sell the Tudor if you need to as a way to finance other purchases. For a dress watch, JLC Master ultra-thin is a great watch as mentioned above and the GO are beautiful as well. I also like having different dial colors and band options.
If you are really partial to Rolex and have skinny wrists like I do (6.5"), the 39mm OPs that were discontinued a few years ago are great watches. I wear mine almost everyday and am debating buying another one in a different dial because it's such a comfortable watch and is appropriate for almost every situation. Depending on the color you want and how important having the box and papers is to you, you can get them online from 6-10k.
I'd also go for quality over quantity. I have some cheaper watches in different colors/designs just to have options but find myself not wearing them much because the feel of going from a JLC or Rolex to them is so noticeable.
Not a watch person per se but am starting to get into the idea of having a few nice ones. Does anyone have any recommendations for good dress watch brands?
All I’ve got so far is a Cartier Tank and I love it.
Looking to pick up a Cartier Santos in the near future and IWC Portofino as well.
Dream watch would be an A Lange and Sohne but I’d be terrified to wear $30-60K around town.
Grand Seiko or Nomos for bauhaus design
I'll take my JLC over a Cartier anyday but that's just my preference. IWC Portofino is a great choice
I've thought about getting a Breguet Marine but I always go back to a view of would I rather have 3 10k watches or 1 30k watch.
Omegas are good watches if you want something a little more affordable.
You just described my top three watches, I suspect we have similar taste.
I also adore the JLC ultra thin moon, curious whether it fits in an office environment
I have a Panerai PAM312 that I wear to work and dress occasions and an Apple Watch that I wear for sport functions. I also have a mid-2000’s Rolex Yachtmaster with a
Gold bezel that was left to me. I wear it sometimes for special occasions but because of the sentimental value, I’m always afraid of losing, damaging, or having it stolen.
I really do like the AP Royal Oak offshore line, but there’s no way I would ever spend that much on a watch. Maybe if I hit the lottery or something
Not sure I would qualify a Panerai as a "dress occasion" watch
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