Slow bank holiday night, so I figured I would go into this. After having followed watch brand for some years and having had countless conversation with fellow consultants and banking friends about why you don't spend your first bonus on a fucking mixed steel-gold submariner, I figured a brief guide about watches may help.
DISCLAIMER: I know that a large majority of people won't care and neither will the large majority of co-workers, but some might and looking like a knob to those who cares is the worst way to start a career. I also want to state that these watches are my personal preference - this is in no way an objective review so please avoid the Monkey Shit for having left out your favourite Tissot model.
Whilst some of you may have read the GSElevator guide to watches on Wall Street, I think it does a poor job and offers the same insight into watches as someone who went on the Richemont Group's website for the first time and memorised some names. Regardless, here goes:
Intern
You're tucked away at the back of the office and the only people you see are your fellow interns and the raging face of associates and VPs as they shit down your neck for having put an extra comma on slide 37 of 80. Your salary isn't bad, but you can't exactly go eating lobster and caviar whenever you please. You've spent the last 12 hours building a model and aligning logos on a deck you'll never see again and are counting the minutes until the clock strikes 2am and you can finally go home for those well deserved 3-4 hours of nightmare-fuelled sleep. You need something that clearly shows the fading seconds.
Top Recommendations
Oris Divers Sixty-Five (~$2000): neat, simple, small and under the radar whilst maintaining good visibility and a clean dial.
You can buy it on authenticwatches.com.
Tudor Black Bay 36mm (~$2700): does it slightly look like Rolex's explorer? yes. Is it better? yes. As above, it's slim and near without attracting too much attention but still has the quality and durability of a watch crafted by the Rolex group.
You can buy it here from Crown and Caliber.
Baume et Mercier Classima (~$1000): subtle and elegant. Unknown to most and still a phenomenal timepiece
You can buy it here at the company webiste.
Analysts
You got the offer, accepted it and now can do endure the daily barraging on a full time basis. Yet, it feels different to know someone out there looked past the hungover mornings during the internship, the awkward attempted hookups with the smoke show intern and the constant fuck ups to give you an offer. You feel proud, confused and scared at the same time. You've already endured 3 months of this so you have an idea of how things work, plus you'll get to go Sean Penn on some interns in a few months. Still, you're mostly at your desk but can carry yourself with a bit more confidence than you did during the summer. Go on. Treat yourself.
Top Recommendations
Rolex Datejust Stainless Steel (~$7800): finally, you can get a Rolex. To those asking 'when the fuck can I buy a submariner?' the answer is whenever - just never wear it to the office. This is a personal taste, but with the plethora of models Rolex offers, the best suit watch has to be the datejust. Simple and elegant, yet a bit more noticeable without the big 'fuck you' bezel of the submariner.
You can buy it here on Amazon.
Zenith Elite Chrono (~$7300): you're not coach Carter running suicides at Richmond High so the chrono will not be of practical use, yet it fits perfectly with the design of the watch particularly the black dial with the black leather strap.
You can buy it here on PrestigeTime.
Omega De Ville (~$3300): similar to the Zenith mentioned above, the simple dial and design allows it to blend in with formal suits perfectly. Some may prefer better known Omegas (speedmaster, seamaster etc) but again, I wouldn't wear them with a suit.
You can buy the watch here on Jomashop.
Associate
You officially have errand boys! Slowly rising up the ranks, grinding away hard as always and now allowed to look at clients in the face, this is your time to shine. Salary gets bigger, bonus gets bigger, office hours shrink (slightly) and more people start to notice you. Why? You have responsibility. You're teaching the apes below you simple tasks and if they fuck up, as much as you can shit on them later, you'll be shit on first. Make sure you can fit the big boy pants with a big boy watch. A word of caution here. Since you'll have pretty good money at this stage, it's easy to fall into temptation and go full Lil Wayne with a shit flashy watch. Do the research, ask friends. At this budget, there are plenty of watches you can buy.
Top Recommendations:
Blancpain Villeret (~$14000): this is a family of Blancpain models and variants exist discontinued on the 2nd hand market or brand new. Either way, this watch shows fellow watch enthusiasts you certainly have taste and if you don't care what others think, enjoy the fact you're wearing a phenomenal watch from one of the oldest brands in the world
You can buy this watch here on Jomashop and learn more about the brand on the company website.
Breguet Classic (~$13000): again, a family of models and again a simple yet elegant piece. For classic watches around this budget, Breguet and Blancpain go head to head so either way, you're making a good decision.
You can purchase this watch on Jomashop.
Rolex Cellini Date in White Gold (~$17500): a lot of people have mixed feelings about Cellini's and yet they remain a classic. It may be strange to consider having a gold watch but the case is slim and the white gold is subtle, not flashy.
You can buy this watch here on World's Best.
Vice President
You're making real money, you're managing teams. Time to get a man's watch. It is at this point in the rankings that the GS Elevator article mentions the rule that you can wear a Daytona only from VP level up. Is this true? No clue. Either way, if it is then go out and get a steel one to join the thousands of others who have no idea what to do with $15000. Great watch by all accounts, just simple. You can do better.
Top Recommendations:
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (~$25000): This is a big purchase. Again, this is a family of models and the lower end models cost around this much. You're wearing one of the brands that brought Swiss watchmaking to life on an international level. It's time to start looking at the big brands, but the non-traditional models.
You can buy this watch on the company website.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Stainless Steel (~$14000): similar price to associate watches, but the importance is elevated. The new geophysic movement add additional accuracy to the watch and having the global timezones helps coordinate with colleagues at the office or when abroad.
You can purchase this watch on the company website.
Piaget Altipiano White Gold (~$20000): the simple time-only version is by far the most elegant. Great piece.
You can buy the watch on the company website.
Director
You're almost at the top, you're regularly meeting clients and you have more people to shit on/look after. By this point a lot of colleagues you had a few years ago have go off to do other things but you are resilient. You know this is for you and you're so close to becoming a rain maker, you want to start feeling like one.
Top Recommendations:
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra Thin White Gold (~$31500): not the first model that comes to mind when you think AP, but it does have a certain class and elegance to it. Small, subtle yet imposing.
You can buy this watch on Tourneau.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119G (~$22500): your first Patek. This is a special moment; not everyone deserves a Patek. Start with something small as an introduction to the family.
You can buy the watch on the Lunns webiste.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia (~$21500): many may not know this brand but for those who do, this is it. Although this may not be the top model, you're on a steady path there.
You can learn more about this watch on the company website.
Managing Director
Yo've done it. You're at the top after years of hard work and dedication. You're officially a rainmaker, bringing in so much money that the bank has started working for you as a platform for you to conduct business. You're making so much money you've stopped giving a shit. So fuck it, go nuts.
Top Recommendations:
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual (~$103500): a beast of of watch, yet classy. Top shelf by Lange.
You can buy this watch on Chrono24.
Patek Philippe Grand Complication 5159G (~$91000): one of the best pieces by Patek. Sure, you can also get a Nautilus but it has become a (relatively) common piece like the Daytona and Submariner. Go for something special.
You can purchase this watch on Chrono24.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac (~$125000): the movement, the craftsmanship and the attention to detail make this an amazing piece. Good luck finding one, particularly with your birth year.
You can learn more about the watch on the company website.
Partner
By this point, you really don't care. Buy a watch or not. It won't make a difference; you're the boss.
Rollies only, plain janes or go home
Can someone create a Woman Watch version of this plz
Intern:
Analyst / Associate:
VP:
Director+:
What does the GS Elevator guy do now?
Selling socks.
Interns should have $3000 watches and MDs should have $100,000 watches??? Everything should be shifted down once imo
I knew this could come up hahaha I 100% agree there are incredible watches for under $1K for interns and that the average MD wouldn't drop $100K on watch. Here I'm exaggerating the watch selection for those that are watch enthusiasts.
$16-17 gross. Say $11 net and $6k after housing.
How about we stop preaching Interns and Analysts that it's the right thing to spend their hard-earned money on materialistic shit? What's wrong with a Xiaomi Mi Band 3 that has a ticket price of $30 that does much more than the most expensive watch can do.
This kind of finance bro culture is eroding, and it drove away many bright people who -like clients for that matter- couldn't give a shit less about what kind of watch you're wearing. These guys went to tech and are now banking more than most people here, in their $50 outfits.
Aiming for Partner so I can sport a Dora the Explorer watch.
Kidding. I'll go with a hybrid smartwatch instead, prestige or not.
Jesus where are the $100-$200 intern watches?
the apple store
Check out Tissot - fairly simple good value and not your typical Fossil
You're recommending a $1500 watch as an alternative to a $300 watch... for an intern?
SB!!
Four watches that I really like and would add to around analyst level watches are the following:
Omega Speadmaster (Moonwatch): simple, lean, beautiful, brilliant 'story' of the watch
JLC Reverso: again very simple, cool story (invented for polo players who used to break the glass of the watch while playing), very very classic watch (I know some people hate it - I love it)
Glashütte Senator Excellence: simple and elegant watch
IWC Portuguese Chronograph: again a nice elegant watch
Big fan of the speedmaster as well. Seamaster is also another great piece and a cost-effective alternative to the submariner.
What's a Speadmaster?
...sorry, the inner associate in me came out.
I have an Apple watch. It helps me not miss phone calls.
Maybe one day I'll pick up an Omega or Rolex just for shits, but right now not missing phone calls is more functionality than any other watch can give me for a fraction of the price.
Interns buying $2000 watches is stupid as fuck.
Edit 5 years later cause people are liking this comment: I have 5 watches now, including the aforementioned Rolex and Omega. I love them. Interns buying $2000 watches is still comically dumb.
First off, love the approach to this guide. Though it's over the top in true WSO fashion, I think it's correct in that a man's watch should match his station. Nobody likes seeing an intern with a Rolex.
The first real watch I bought was an Edox Les Vauberts Day/Date Automatic.
https://www.ashford.com/us/watches/edox/83007-37R-AIR.pid
Retails for 1.5k, but I got it for $300 by carefully monitoring fluctuations in price for about a year and snagging it when several sales were on at once. Fantastic purchase, gets lots of compliments and is a quality-crafted timepiece.
While it is not a brand that a watch connoisseur would immediately recognize, I think the brand's value will only increase in coming years. The company has actually been around since the 1800s, and was purchased/revived in the late 20th century.
for interns or analysts, i would recommend:
nomos tangente (about USD 2,330) - very understated; in house movement, german made, clean minimalist design
https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/families/tangente
I can't tell if this is a joke post or not.
Why would you spend that much on a watch? The only thing it does is tell time. And in this case is just to show off your status.
I say buy an apple watch which as ten times the functionality of any of these for a fraction of the price.
Same thing could be said about anything. Why fly business class instead of economy on planes? All they do is get you from A to B. And why spend $500 on a suit? All it does is cover you and does the same job as a $100 suit.
Watch enthusiasts don't look at watches as a tool to tell the time. That's perhaps 10% of what they seek. You look for brands with a history, the look, the quality, durability (most solid watches last 20-30 years if taken care of) and the handcrafted work. This last one doesn't apply to some of the mass market brands like rolex and omega but applies to others like A. Lange & Sohne, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Plenty of other brands which sell lower price watches are also like this.
Love this thread, but not realistic at all.
My unqualified, but more realistic advice is:
Intern: Casio, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Timex, (nothing really more than 300). You could also go for a clean smartwatch, just make sure it's not actually delivering any notifications because you almost certainly don't have any important notifications (meme tagging aside). Don't buy a fuckin Dan Wellington, every watch in this price range costs $2 to produce, don't buy the one that has the least brand value behind it.
Analyst: Tissot/Seiko/Perhaps move up to something with an ETA movement in it - but definitely not much point blowing more than like 1.5K
Late stage Analyst/Associate something like an entry level IWC/Rolex/Breitling/Nomos/Glasshutte. Would tend to still go for Pilot watches, metal wrist straps and Rollys attract a bit of attention and sometimes you can rub a simple minded client the wrong way if they think you're trying to flex on them.
Agreed with this post.
Wearing something beyond your means / before you’ve had a few bonuses and proven yourself just puts a target on your back for others to make assumptions about you, like “entitled rich kid” or “poser”. Very little upside to wearing an expensive watch too early (“oh, nice watch”) vs significant downside, particularly if you’re still learning the ropes (“why the hell is this kid wearing a $5k watch when he’s still fucking up on my pitches”).
Interns/jr Analysts frankly shouldn’t go past $1k. Frankly, they can probably look at $400-700 range. For those I would suggest Seiko (Japan-versions, not like Seiko 5’s, but check out seiyajapan which has things like the skx007 (good entry level diver which is
Good job on perpetuating the disturbing rhetoric that investment banking is still a man's world. It is frankly ridiculous that you would spend the time and effort to compile this list and not include at least one option per level for the opposite sex in the industry.
I found the price ranges for each IB level ridiculous more than anything (everyone’s buying range should be moved down 1-2 spaces, I have yet to see an MD walk around with a $100k watch).
But not having women options listed is not something I would find offensive (speaking as a woman). First off, watch selection for women is pretty dank vs. what’s available for men. It’s a lot of adding jewels to the bezel and/or dial, which I personally find a bit tacky. Interestingly, a lot of women that like watches (and know watches) actually go for men’s models like Rolex subs. Or take fairly masculine looking watches - like Panerai’s - and switch out the band for something more colorful (I’ve seen it with say red leather bands and it looks quite nice). Otherwise, if we’re talking more elegant options, it’s just usually the smaller version of classics (like smaller sized JLC Reverso’s or smaller Cartier Tank’s). But buying a women’s watch outside of those classics kinda sucks cause the grey market isn’t nearly as liquid as the men’s market, and the designs, as I mentioned, are a bit tacky / less clean vs the men’s models. Or the watch industry assumes women prefer quartz (for convenience/ not needing to reset the watch), which is not necessarily untrue (I’m sure a lot of women don’t care about movement and prefer not having to reset the time or whatever), but it’s a huge generalization. And I certainly wouldn’t pay good money for a quartz model.
In short, it’s difficult to suggest women’s watches - unless you know the audience (not care about movement? Like flashy bling? Prefer elegance? Prefer good movements and maintain value? Etc)
Great thread. A few of my favourites:
Cheap
Seiko SKX; the ones that are essentially the Rolex Pepsi and Coke knock-offs. Decent movements, good looks, cheap as chips, strong as anything. Slightly large for some.
Timex and Tissot make decent low-end watches
If you're a fan of the Glashutte looks, the Rodina Bauhaus is a surprisingly decent replica.
I also wear a Casio F-91W almost ironically sometimes.
Affordable
Baume & Mercier - Classima
Nomos Tangente for minimalist looks
Rolex Explorer and Datejust (pre-owned) - small dials, not too standout. The Datejust white dial is very classy
Lower end of expensive
IWC a thousand times - Portofino / Portugueser / Da Vinci Automatic for white dials or Pilot /Big Pilot Chronograph for blue dials. All built brilliantly and not too flashy.
Rolex GMT Master-II - the black dial one that was just discontinued is a classic and my preference over a Sub. Love the Coke as well - wouldn't wear a Batman because it's a bit overplayed.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - my favourite Diver watches. Loads of dial and bracelet choices and better looking and better movements than the newer Rolex Submariners.
Expensive
Pateks frankly - Nautilus or Aquanaut. Can't go wrong
Rolex Daytona - not the current ceramic dial ones, the older steel dials do it for me. The only current Daytona I like is the white dial.
Some baller types wear Richard Mille and Zeniths - don't like the looks personally (busy dials).
Other watches I see quite often but don't like much anymore are the classic Rolex Subs (prefer GMT-Masters these days), the newer Daytonas, Breguet, some tacky Hublots, Audemars and Panerais (too bloody big), Glashutte and of course smartwatches. I like the blue dial subs and white dial Yachtmasters but they're far too laid back for the office, they're boat watches and stick out in a meeting.
I'd say if you're a VP and up you should own at least one Rolex if you care about the 'prestige' thing. Analysts and Associates should just wear what they like, I don't know what sort of prick expects them to blow $10k+ on watches. I certainly didn't then - I was more in the 'Affordable' category above back then.