What does surfing feel like?
All I can say is that it’s amazing. It’s like you’re walking on water. You are moving much slower than you think but it feels like you’re going 100 miles an hour. It’s liberating, exciting, sometimes scary. It’s the best feeling in the world. Surfing is Art. AND What does surfing feel like?
It feels wonderful. It feels really good to paddle out to the wave. If the weather is good the sun feels good and the water feels great. It feels thrilling to slide down the wave. It sucks when the wave is over. I always wished the waves lasted longer.
Nothing beats the feeling where you paddle and suddenly feel the wave start to carry you
Yeah and then you eventually graduate to launching off the front of the wave or getting sucked over the falls. Drop ins feel so steep sometimes - its crazy.
R/Surfing
I've surfed Hossegor/Biarritz France, J-Bay in South Africa, Sumbawa (Lakey's Peak) Indonesia, Bells Beach Australia, East Coast OBX to FL, SoCal, Sayulita Mexico
I generally prefer head and a half to double overhead or I don't want to go out.
Also, I'm not that good. I just like the rush.
you and I are kindred spirits
whats your goto board for that size of wave?
surfing is something I wished I discovered earlier, I was a skateboarder until maybe 16 despite growing up at the beach. parents weren't big beach people so getting there was tough, once I got my license I tried to surf everyday. haven't travelled a ton for surfing but as soon as travel restrictions are up, I'm getting after it. before I was in PWM, I taught lessons to all sorts of people (usually vacationers wanting to say they know how to surf when they get back to Ohio or wherever the fuck they're from). it's the best feeling imaginable
I've surfed all kinds of boards, but mainly learned on a 6'6" Sharp Eye Gun that I bought in the 90s from Emerald City surf shop in Coronado, CA. The board was thin and designed for big waves. I didn't completely realize this when buying it and it started me on the path to only liking big fast waves.
I appreciate all kinds of boards and for big waves though usually only up to 8ft or something as if any bigger, I can't duck dive paddling out and that sucks.
I used a board in France, bought a shortboard in J Bay that I sold there, and used my friends boards in Indonesia, so it was whatever I could get my hands on. I rented a board in Bells Beach. I don't remember all the exact dimensions, but most were larger surfboards designed for large waves.
I gotta say, @Isaiah_53_5" & thebrofessor, it's always been something I've wanted to get into.
I doubt 1-2 weeks at the beach every year will cut it for me though, in terms of learning.
if I remember correctly, you're in SC or GA. both of those are surfing deserts. they rarely get good waves because of the distance between the continental shelf and the shoreline. you could get a longboard and use it in Charleston, but you'd be better off driving north to wrightsville/carolina beach or south to jacksonville. I will say this, you can absolutely learn how to surf in one day if you know how to swim and have decent balance. to become proficient, you absolutely need a lot of water time.
if you're landlocked and not a short drive from the beach, I'd find a lake/river and do some stand up paddleboarding, many of the muscles you use to stay floating on that thing will help you surfing. if you're not close to a beach on the east coast, you're probably close to mountains and hills, so get a nice carvy skateboard and shred the concrete gnar. additionally, swim. your surfing experiences will be so much more enjoyable if you can swim for long periods of time without dying. a good start is to be able to do 500m unbroken (not stopping for water breaks). doesn't have to be fast, you're going for endurance here
and if you're in any other state on the eastern seaboard, you've got no excuse. you're maybe a 2-3 hour drive from surfable waves at all times, just suck it up and do it. you can get up at the crack of dawn, rent a board when the shops open, fuck around for a bit, get some grub after you're tired and dejected, and then head back to Charlotte or whatever
To be honest, I think its really easy to learn. Just get a bigger sized board and fun sized waves and you'll have a blast. Its just standing up. Once you stand up and ride a wave for the first couple times, you'll be floored. Its pretty amazing.
You ever skateboard? Similar motion, retaining balance, etc. just replace the concrete with water, it's amazing.
Also, watch Point Break (1991) - got me into surfing, hence my username and picture
It all makes sense now. The fabled break at the end was supposed to be Bells Beach in Australia. I've surfed that break and came out alive.
It feels like smell of napalm in the morning.
Feels pretty shitty getting out on the water on a French shore
snowboarding on fresh powder feels better
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